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#1 |
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Fender rolling/pulling
well, due to me miscalculating the offset for my wheels, I need to look into options on either getting new fenders or rolling the fronts and rears. I know my options for replacement fenders aren't exactly numerous and they're all white costly.
So that makes me think id be better off with rolling the fronts and rears. Do any of you guys know any shops around that can get this done? Ideally the shop would need to be around the Guelph or KW area. If it's outside of there, I'd prefer them to be able to get it done in a day. Any input is hugely appreciated |
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#2 |
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What size wheel/tire did you get? A mild roll is pretty easy. But when you get close to closing the fender lip into a flat crease or pulling them, it is much harder and paint/metal can be damaged without being very careful.
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#3 |
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@swarb Enkei compes. They're 16x8 +25 tires are 225/50/16, and I have about 1cm of poke in the front, and around 1cm between fender and tire. Rear is a bit better and I'll probably just get a bit more camber back there to clear.
Pictures for reference IMG_20150313_140044 by colekmiecik, on Flickr IMG_20150313_143528 by colekmiecik, on Flickr
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#4 |
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You won't need a pull.
A mild roll for the fronts near the side marker is all you would need if any. Take in mind that the wheel cambers in under compression. Get some camber bolts out front to add some camber. I think you picked your offsets pretty spot on. Last edited by swarb; 03-16-2015 at 12:25 AM. |
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#5 |
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Cheers. Been looking into maybe more camber for the front. Hoping that camber bolts are all I need. That's definitely going to save me about 1000 over getting new fenders
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#6 |
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Fenders are already mostly rolled, and the front's gain very little camber under compression. Max out some camber bolts and I bet you'll clear easily though. The rears do gain camber under compression, so I think you'll be fine back there as is.
FWIW, I had some 16x7 +31 on temporarily and with -2* up front they were sunken in by probably 10-15mm (didn't bother measuring).
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#7 | |
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Quote:
Ordered camber bolts, gunna do more camber in the rear and max it out up front. Will also probably pull the fenders just for funs as well. Considering I can see where the rear fender is hitting my tire, more camber is definitely needed. And the front is the same. Any other ways to get more camber out of the front? My camber plates are maxed and I don't know if the -1.5* from the bolts will be enough |
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#8 |
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poverty cause racecar
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so you have aftermarket camber plates maxed out? another thing you could do is run two camber bolts, that way you could max out positive on the lower and max the negative on the upper, should get you at least another .5 degree over just camber bolts. However Id like to know whether or not this is safe to run the two bolts, Ive always thought about it buuuuut....
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#9 | |
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Quote:
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#10 | |
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#11 |
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No alignment sheet. Asked for it, but I wasn't the one who picked the car up from the shop, so no dice. The manufacturer of my coilovers claim the camber plates give -2* and my plates are maxed out. I'm just going off that. With slimmer tires I think I wouldn't have these issues. Might trade off for a 205 square set up or 215 in the back and 205 in the front
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#12 |
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If you want to gut check it, find some reasonably flat ground (the garage floor should work), and install a level app on your phone. Put a long flat piece of wood against the wheel/tires, and then put the phone on that to measure the angle of the wheel (with the car resting on the tires, not in the air). Measure the other side to see if it's wildly out (sloped floor would do that).
Based on the picture of the front, it looks like you're poking more than 10mm, so going to a 205 still wouldn't buy you the clearance you need.
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#13 | |
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EDIT: Checked the camber quickly with my phone. Front camber is around -1* left and right, rear is around -2* left and right. Gunna bump the rear to -5* when I get the chance, that should fix the rubbing there. The fronts... I dunno, hoping that I can get the adjustment I need out of the camber bolts. It also looks like my top hats aren't in fact adjusted all the way negative, still have some adjustment I can do. However, I need to get a new jack (long story, almost died, no big deal) before I can adjust anything. Last edited by Bergen23; 03-16-2015 at 07:16 PM. |
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#14 | |
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And yeah I would really try messing with one camber bolt first and then moving onto the second bolt if need be. As long as they are torqued to spec they should be OK however for the winter I would take the bolts out because they rust like crazy... |
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