Tracking with Forced Induction

[Reaper]

Holesaw it and put short sections of pvc pipe through.

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[mike the snake]

The radiator needs to be moved forward. It was the only way enough clearance could be gained on my FB turbo kit.

I think the kit now comes with new upper-mount tabs, but moving the radiator forward at the bottom is where most of the clearance is gained.

IMO every front mount turbo kit should include moving the radiator forward. It's too easy to do and gains the needed clearance to not melt/overheat parts.

Fans on ALL the time, or on at a super low temp, keeps radiating heat from melting parts.

With the extra clearance, there's room to install some heat shielding between the DP and where it is closest to the fans.

My header and DP are both ceramic coated and wrapped, and it still gets hotter than hell under the hood.

I'm not sure how effective my skidplate mods are yet, but either that or a vented hood I think is necessary for track use. The hot engine bay air needs a way to get out.

[SirBrass]

What about for those of us wanting to go the SC route with FI? Vented hood still a good idea, or unnecessary? I know that SC's produce LESS heat than a turbo, but how much?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by SirBrass

What about for those of us wanting to go the SC route with FI? Vented hood still a good idea, or unnecessary? I know that SC's produce LESS heat than a turbo, but how much?

Compare the hotside piping location and surface area of a turbo setup versuses the header of a SC setup.

The amount of heat inside the engine bay is significantly less. It's not something we've quantified, but it's substantial.

[mike the snake]

IMO, just as much attention must be paid to exhausting the engine bay air.

Hot air needs to be pushed or pulled out, preferably pulled out, so low pressure areas pulling the higher pressure engine bay air out.

Vented hood accomplishes this, the mod I did to the skidplate helps I think as well.

Otherwise, the highest pressure air coming in through the grill needs to pressurize the engine bay which pushes the hot air out underneath the car/engine. This is where we are now. Possibly reinstalling the air dams will help a little.

Properly shaped and placed vents could passively pull the needed air and cause a quick air exchange, which is what is really needed.

[SirBrass]

Originally Posted by mike the snake

IMO, just as much attention must be paid to exhausting the engine bay air.

Hot air needs to be pushed or pulled out, preferably pulled out, so low pressure areas pulling the higher pressure engine bay air out.

Vented hood accomplishes this, the mod I did to the skidplate helps I think as well.

Otherwise, the highest pressure air coming in through the grill needs to pressurize the engine bay which pushes the hot air out underneath the car/engine. This is where we are now. Possibly reinstalling the air dams will help a little.

Properly shaped and placed vents could passively pull the needed air and cause a quick air exchange, which is what is really needed.

Not that I have exhaustive experience, but the only commercially available vented hood that I've seen is the Seibon one, and I've heard from several people with them that there's usually fitment problems with those hoods.

Would be nice if someone came out with a lightweight aluminum vented hood where proper R&D had been done for efficient venting and fitment.

[FAER]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

We've done both of those, as well as wrapping ALL exhaust components. Fans still melted.

sounds like its not an issue of the turbo then...

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by FAER

sounds like its not an issue of the turbo then...

Then what is it?

Underbody is vented. Hood is vented. All reasonable shielding has been done. Fans are properly installed. Cooling capacity is there.

Radiant heat is the issue.

[FAER]

It seems you're looking to treat symptoms of the problem rather than preventing the problem in the first place ...

is radiant heat is the issue look for a more efficient turbo set up that produces less "radiant heat"

this can be achieved by more efficient pipe routing, turbo selection, tune...

I can understand that you see the issue as impossible to solve but i highly doubt you have exhausted all possible avenues of resolution.

On a side note.... who cares if the fans melted.... Racecars don't need fans

[Mrc@ptuning]

Originally Posted by FAER

Umm this seems like an easy fix, robispec radiatir/oilcooled com er with pure distilled water/water wetter. Vented hood (siebon has a good one) and bAm.. No more heat issues.... I don't get it..

That's the best thing you can do for your track car's cooling system in addition to upgrading the radiator, flush the coolant and run distilled water/redline waterwetter.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by FAER

It seems you're looking to treat symptoms of the problem rather than preventing the problem in the first place ...

is radiant heat is the issue look for a more efficient turbo set up that produces less "radiant heat"

this can be achieved by more efficient pipe routing, turbo selection, tune...

I can understand that you see the issue as impossible to solve but i highly doubt you have exhausted all possible avenues of resolution.

On a side note.... who cares if the fans melted.... Racecars don't need fans

Swapping the turbo setup is not an option; it's a client's car. It was the first solution we brought up.

[SirBrass]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Swapping the turbo setup is not an option; it's a client's car. It was the first solution we brought up.

What about moving it to a "behind the engine" configuration, or a rear-mount configuration? Is that possible with this turbo?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by SirBrass

What about moving it to a "behind the engine" configuration, or a rear-mount configuration? Is that possible with this turbo?

That would be swapping the turbo setup for another turbo setup.

Perhaps at the end of the year... the car can't be down for that long while it's being campaigned.

[SirBrass]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

That would be swapping the turbo setup for another turbo setup.

Perhaps at the end of the year... the car can't be down for that long while it's being campaigned.

Ah. I thought you were talking about changing the turbo out entirely. So, somehow addressing the heat issue without changing turbo or its mounting configuration.

Is coating the turbine housing with a strong insulation coating as well as doing the turbo blanket an option? I'd have suggested good airflow over the turbo, but EGTs need to be kept up, but the radiant heat needs to be addressed. So, somehow divert the radiant heat of the turbo and hotside parts away from the radiator....

Hard in such tight confines. It's like expecting a virgin trapped on a lifeboat with 3 sailors for 3 months to remain a virgin....