CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by FRSKEV

Question regarding RCE yellows and rear camber adjustment.

Why would I want the whiteline adjustable upper control arm bushings over the whiteline lower control arm adjustable bushing? It's 2 less bushings to install, easier to adjust and has more range.

This is from what I understand, I might be wrong.

The upper control arm bushing replaces a soft squishy OEM bushing in a key location. Adjustments here do not affect anything else either.

Real pain in the ass to install and adjust though. I think the ideal way to go is to install the fixed WL bushing for the upper control arm and then get an adjustable lower control arm.

- Andy

[gramicci101]

Another bushing question: For a daily driver with occasional spirited mountain roads and possibly an autocross day or two, do you feel that replacing the soft squishy OEM bushings is a worthwhile mod, considering the increased NVH you would get as a result?

I will be doing the drivetrain bushings (engine, transmission, rear diff mount, rear subframe), but should I really worry about the various control arm bushings as well?

[7thgear]

bushings are the best mod you can do for your car if you're looking at improving feel and response, no doubt about it, the NVH increase is negligible and quite honestly greatly over exaggerated by the online community.


the only thing to keep in mind is that if you autocross this will bump you out of the stock class, so you'll be bumped into STX right off the bat. This is the only reason I haven't done the jump as I would need to spend quite a bit of money to bring the car to a competitive level.

[gramicci101]

If and when I autocross, being competitive will be the last thing on my mind. I'll be trying to keep the car pointed in the right direction and identify the one orange cone in the sea of orange cones that is telling me where to go. Plus, I'm also planning springs and header, so I'd already be out of the stock class.

Thanks for the opinion on the bushings. They're not terribly expensive, so I think I'm going to go for it. FT86 speed factory has energy suspension sets for the entire front and rear suspensions for not too much.

[FastWhite]

Find a reputable shop to install them. I had the front and rear control arm bushings installed on my old STI at the cost of $500 +.
Or a DIY project.
It's all about the proper tools for the job.
I've messed up plenty of times. Cost a lot too. Just a heads up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cdrazic93]

This thread should be re-named "ask @CSG Mike and @Racecomp Engineering and @7thgear Q&A! We'll answer anything!" Lol


Is it better to replace the bushings in the UCA while installing new coilovers? Seems like it would make it less of a pain in the ass...

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

This thread should be re-named "ask @CSG Mike and @Racecomp Engineering and @7thgear Q&A! We'll answer anything!" Lol


Is it better to replace the bushings in the UCA while installing new coilovers? Seems like it would make it less of a pain in the ass...

It would be convenient at least.

- Andy

[Books]

I don't really have a question... but I am going to be installing Koni's and RCE Tarmacs today (+rear LCAs and camber bolts) and mounting some Dunlop Star Specs this weekend.

I imagine that this will be night and day difference, especially coming from Prius tires?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Books

I don't really have a question... but I am going to be installing Koni's and RCE Tarmacs today (+rear LCAs and camber bolts) and mounting some Dunlop Star Specs this weekend.

I imagine that this will be night and day difference, especially coming from Prius tires?

Heck yeah. You're gonna really enjoy that.

- Andy

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Books

I don't really have a question... but I am going to be installing Koni's and RCE Tarmacs today (+rear LCAs and camber bolts) and mounting some Dunlop Star Specs this weekend.

I imagine that this will be night and day difference, especially coming from Prius tires?

Z1 Star Specs or Z2 Star Specs? I'm really curious about the Z2 Star Specs...

[cdrazic93]

What size sway bars would anyone reccomend for a brz with about 280-290 whp?

Apart from aiding a proper alignment in lowering a car, what else do LCAs do? For example, on a mild 1" drop, would LCAs be needed, or just camber bolts?

I'm just trying to figure out what I need to add to my list of suspension components

[7thgear]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

What size sway bars would anyone reccomend for a brz with about 280-290 whp?

Apart from aiding a proper alignment in lowering a car, what else do LCAs do?

swaybar size has nothing to do with power

LCA, or lower control arm, is responsible for holding your wheel at a fixed distance from the chassis, kind of important.. and alignment is usually made at the top of the strut (for caster or camber) and at the tie-rod end (for toe).

alignment changes from the LCA usually mean a pretty advanced LCA but that is more towards the higher end of car modification.

[cdrazic93]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

swaybar size has nothing to do with power

LCA, or lower control arm, is responsible for holding your wheel at a fixed distance from the chassis, kind of important.. and alignment is usually made at the top of the strut (for caster or camber) and at the tie-rod end (for toe).

Ok so, LCAs are needed, damn.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

Ok so, LCAs are needed, damn.

7th is saying they're not required.

Camber bolts are the go to for adjusting the front camber. Lower control arms are the go to for adjusting the rear camber. Adjustable front lower control arms aren't for the person that has to ask these questions. There is a lot going on when you adjust the front control arm on a Mac strut suspension. And before you get defensive I'm not saying I'm about to buy a set of front Lower Control Arm's either. WAY over my head.

If you have the desire to learn there plenty of links throughout this thread that can help you start down that path, but for now, I'd recommend group-n top hats for the street, and camber bolts for adjustment. The group-n mounts wont make any noise but are stiffer than stock. If you want to go stiffer than group-n's, pick up a set of adjustable top hats. They will likely make some more noise, but that's the trade off for further adjustment and less movement.