Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[KoolBRZ]

The SHURiKEN's have more Cold Cranking Amps in one of them, then both of the Big Cranks combined. 850 CCA, apiece. The Big Cranks only have 325 CCA, but they have a lot more reserve capacity. Enough reserve to outlast that Optima 2 times over. The SHURiKEN's charge faster, because they dump faster. They are designed to react quickly as an audio ballast battery. They are designed to be superior to those big audio capacitors.

[cdrazic93]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

The SHURiKEN's charge faster, because they dump faster. They are designed to react quickly as an audio ballast battery. They are designed to be superior to those big audio capacitors.

Be careful about comparing batteries to capacitors, theyre similar but very different.

[KoolBRZ]

Well you can put the same electricity into both, and get 12 volts from the battery, and 1,000,000 volts from the capacitor. That's the main difference in my book, also a cap drains in an instant, while a battery takes a while.

[bfrank1972]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

Well you can put the same electricity into both, and get 12 volts from the battery, and 1,000,000 volts from the capacitor. That's the main difference in my book, also a cap drains in an instant, while a battery takes a while.

Those are some aspects you can see, but really they are for completely different uses. Batteries are clearly the better choice for this system. Btw to your point, with large caps, there is a SIGNIFICANT health risk to the uninitiated vs batteries. Don't kill yourself


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[KoolBRZ]

Well the bottom line is that the controller was never designed to handle 1,000,000 volts, so that rules caps out. I would like to see what could be done with a larger motor/compressor and 36 volts though. I'd also like to see what the current setup could do with the compressor mounted in front of the radiator, blowing through an FMIC, THEN past the MAF and into the engine. It would also have a fully insulated intake so that there would be no heat-soak when it sits in traffic.

[fenton]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

The SHURiKEN's have more Cold Cranking Amps in one of them, then both of the Big Cranks combined. 850 CCA, apiece. The Big Cranks only have 325 CCA, but they have a lot more reserve capacity. Enough reserve to outlast that Optima 2 times over. The SHURiKEN's charge faster, because they dump faster. They are designed to react quickly as an audio ballast battery. They are designed to be superior to those big audio capacitors.

The Shuriken's say they have 850Cranking amps, not cold cranking amps. These two numbers will be substantially different. Can't seem to find the actual CCA for those batteries anywhere.

[KoolBRZ]

Sure, they don't have the reserve capacity of the Big Cranks, but they don't need it. Their lower internal resistance allows a quicker recharge which works for me. I don't need boost to last for minutes at a time. I don't live near the salt flats, or anywhere else I could use that kind of speed. When I boost enough to draw down the batteries, I boost hard for about two gears, then I let off and they recharge. I think the quick recharge is much more desirable then a higher reserve and a slower recharge. I really think the high reserve power should be used for the engine battery, so it won't drain down overnight when I leave the OFT on.

[fenton]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

Sure, they don't have the reserve capacity of the Big Cranks, but they don't need it. Their lower internal resistance allows a quicker recharge which works for me. I don't need boost to last for minutes at a time. I don't live near the salt flats, or anywhere else I could use that kind of speed. When I boost enough to draw down the batteries, I boost hard for about two gears, then I let off and they recharge. I think the quick recharge is much more desirable then a higher reserve and a slower recharge. I really think the high reserve power should be used for the engine battery, so it won't drain down overnight when I leave the OFT on.

Do you have before and after boost curve once upgrading the dump batteries? very interested as would many other ESC users. Im sure with how much you datalog you should have decent pulls of both?

Thanks,

[Shinobu's Smile]

Originally Posted by fenton

Do you have before and after boost curve once upgrading the dump batteries? very interested as would many other ESC users. Im sure with how much you datalog you should have decent pulls of both?

Thanks,

Yea, Ive been holding off from buying the dump packs based on any test results.

[KoolBRZ]

Sure, from the dyno I have in my garage, right? it was hard enough getting everything modified for these batteries, I'm not going to be switching and logging just for your piece of mind.

Bottom line these batteries hit harder, recover faster, but don't last as long. Now, this isn't making love, so quick is a good thing. If I needed it to last longer, I would double up on the batteries, (for the ESC you know, keep your mind out of the gutter!). The tray is wide enough to hold 4 of them. Just imagine what kind of motor/compressor you could power with 48 volts?

I think the key piece of information is that these batteries have lower internal resistance. That lets them dump harder, faster, and recover quicker.

[fenton]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

Sure, from the dyno I have in my garage, right? it was hard enough getting everything modified for these batteries, I'm not going to be switching and logging just for your piece of mind.

Bottom line these batteries hit harder, recover faster, but don't last as long. Now, this isn't making love, so quick is a good thing. If I needed it to last longer, I would double up on the batteries, (for the ESC you know, keep your mind out of the gutter!). The tray is wide enough to hold 4 of them. Just imagine what kind of motor/compressor you could power with 48 volts?

I think the key piece of information is that these batteries have lower internal resistance. That lets them dump harder, faster, and recover quicker.

All I was asking is if you log boost on the OFT if you could post a datalog. That should show a good chunk of information.

Not asking you to remove, reinstall, and so forth

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[donthaveoneyet]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

Sure, from the dyno I have in my garage, right? it was hard enough getting everything modified for these batteries, I'm not going to be switching and logging just for your piece of mind.

Bottom line these batteries hit harder, recover faster, but don't last as long. Now, this isn't making love, so quick is a good thing. If I needed it to last longer, I would double up on the batteries, (for the ESC you know, keep your mind out of the gutter!). The tray is wide enough to hold 4 of them. Just imagine what kind of motor/compressor you could power with 48 volts?

I think the key piece of information is that these batteries have lower internal resistance. That lets them dump harder, faster, and recover quicker.

can't you run them in parallel at the same 24V? then you have double the capacity but don't have to change the motor or anything.

[Target70]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

...Bottom line these batteries hit harder, recover faster, but don't last as long. Now, this isn't making love, so quick is a good thing. If I needed it to last longer, I would double up on the batteries, (for the ESC you know, keep your mind out of the gutter!). The tray is wide enough to hold 4 of them. Just imagine what kind of motor/compressor you could power with 48 volts?

I think the key piece of information is that these batteries have lower internal resistance. That lets them dump harder, faster, and recover quicker.

I follow your logic on this, but isn't there a point at which the controller or motor can no longer make use of the available current? To increase the current, either you have lower internal resistance batts, or double up on the batteries(parallel), either should provide the added current. Just going from memory, the 1.5 provided an extra ~.5psi at 7000rpm. I started with dual dumps and was logging comparable boost numbers to the 1.5. Then Rob came out with the 2.0 setup which was just a battery substitution that was supposed to produce the same performance as the 1.5, only less complicated and in a smaller package with maybe a bit less capacity. If I understand you correctly, you are saying that either the SHURiKEN produces higher current than the 2.0 (which the controller can make use of), or the 2.0 is inferior to the 1.5, or even my dual 1.0 setup doesn't produce enough current to fully "saturate" the controller/motor, or finally that I may be misunderstanding the nature of the controller and/or motor.

[Talus1]

Originally Posted by DAEMANO

Since were talking hypotheticals @ cost no option, why stop at 24 volts, how about 36?

I was daydreaming about a controller that would momentarily put the two dump batteries in series with the starter battery to provide a spike of 36V for, say, 250ms to help spin up the compressor to minimize lag.