Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[migueralliart]

You'll probably have to wake pretty early in the morning to make it happen. A Dyno tune will be a dream.

[Luckrider]

Originally Posted by VR46

Haven't lost traction yet - though I haven't done a standing start, nor have I turned the TCS completely off (just VSC sport mode)

Just for HaHas turn the TCS off fully and stand on the brake. Slowly add throttle until you can feel the car want to lurch and overpower the brakes, the front of the car may lift some while you are still sitting still. Dropping the brake should yield a nice launch as you step into WOT and boost. The nice thing is, without the Phantomcharger, there isn't much torque down low so the brake and torque converter should work well together to hold the motor back off of boost.

Of course, I have never driven an automatic twin. I like to launch our Grand Cherokee like this and that makes >90% peak torque from 1200-6200 rpm.

[migueralliart]

Any news on the 30024V version of this ?

Any actual dynos of it?

ALso I understand the 24V gets charged by the controller, what is the approximate current draw when it is engaged and what is the current CHARGE to the battery when the system is disengaged?

[VR46]

Originally Posted by Luckrider

Just for HaHas turn the TCS off fully and stand on the brake. Slowly add throttle until you can feel the car want to lurch and overpower the brakes, the front of the car may lift some while you are still sitting still. Dropping the brake should yield a nice launch as you step into WOT and boost. The nice thing is, without the Phantomcharger, there isn't much torque down low so the brake and torque converter should work well together to hold the motor back off of boost.

Of course, I have never driven an automatic twin. I like to launch our Grand Cherokee like this and that makes >90% peak torque from 1200-6200 rpm.

Yeah, haven't tried since installing the ESC. My Chevy Blazer back in the day, though, you could lay down serious rubber that way. Previous attempts at launching the BRZ for fun led to underwhelming response and no excitement. Some of the threads I've read on this board say to get the brake to like 75-80% and not push down all the way, but I haven't had much luck with that yet.

[VR46]

Originally Posted by DAEMANO

The FSM said "LET IT BE!",

And it was.

Delivery! A glorious night!

Wonder if a guy can pull off a V-day installation tomorrow.

Probably not, but it never hurts to try, Right...?

Right?...

guys...

@Robftss The S.O. appreciated the shout out on the box. Thanks man!

You should be getting that relay in the mail soon too.

[DAEMANO]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

Take off tomorrow then you have plenty of time.

You're right, I need to get my priorities straight

[Sojhinn]

I have to say... You new guys are fricking awesome. Love the love!

[DAEMANO]

Originally Posted by VR46

You should be getting that relay in the mail soon too.

You rock man!

Sorry, not calling you a rock-man. What I meant was...

You rock, man!

[fenton]

Originally Posted by migueralliart

Any news on the 30024V version of this ?

Any actual dynos of it?

ALso I understand the 24V gets charged by the controller, what is the approximate current draw when it is engaged and what is the current CHARGE to the battery when the system is disengaged?

Yes shiv made 216hp and 195tq on 91 octane. There are dynos a couple pages back....just look at shivs posts.

The tq300 with accompanying mods and e85 is going to be very close to 240hp.

The date this will be available is unknown.... It will be a modular swappable upgrade to the current 250kit.

The dump pack charges back at 25amps if I'm not mistaken. When boost is highest I believe it is 200amps or there abouts.



Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

[migueralliart]

If this kit is using a brushless controller another thing is to consider the use of a slightly better FET. Again I'm not sure what it uses but for 200 amp currents I'm pretty sure 4-6 irf3077 in parallel and properly heatsinked will suffice per phase. Their Rdson is one of the lowest at less than 55v of operation.

Can someone give more details about the controller etc? There should be a separate board handling the charging I'm pretty sure.

Pretty interested in the 30024v version. Damn you guys for bringing these near the tax refund season!!!

[fenton]

Originally Posted by migueralliart

If this kit is using a brushless controller another thing is to consider the use of a slightly better FET. Again I'm not sure what it uses but for 200 amp currents I'm pretty sure 4-6 irf3077 in parallel and properly heatsinked will suffice per phase. Their Rdson is one of the lowest at less than 55v of operation.

Can someone give more details about the controller etc? There should be a separate board handling the charging I'm pretty sure.

Pretty interested in the 30024v version. Damn you guys for bringing these near the tax refund season!!!

Rob has went through many many iterations of both controller and motor. What we have today is the best bang for buck performance. The current controller that everyone is getting can handle 5500 watts so it will be scalable with any future additions or upgrades to the kits.

[WNDSRFR]

I got my tune and was able to flash it to the car all by myself. Thanks Shiv. Now the car runs as good as it looks. It feels almost like a rotary motor. So smooth. I followed the tutorial Shiv posted in the Tuning Section and was able to upload the .dev file with no problems. If I can manage this OFT than anyone can!
Speaking of problems: I attempted to do the relay mod yesterday.
Don't be a don't bee be a do bee. Don't do what I did.
What I did was I cut the wire that goes to arming switch near the glove compartment because that's where my relay is powered by the power plug there. I was expecting to interrupt the green and yellow wires there.
But, SURPRISE There are no yellow and green wires. So I thought I had the wrong wire. So I cut the other wire. SURPRISE, No yellow or green wire there either.
Well, the way the harness is made, the colored wires are spliced to black cables and the splice is covered by the loom.
So, today I'm going to cut the green and yellow wire under the hood and run cables to the glove compartment relay and back.
I have yet to remember to turn off the switch.
I left it on all night last night and my battery was a little weak this morning. I'll call it "conditioning the battery." In guess that the arming switch drains power from the starter battery and not the dump batteries.

[SloS14]

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR

But, SURPRISE There are no yellow and green wires. So I thought I had the wrong wire. So I cut the other wire. SURPRISE, No yellow or green wire there either.

I was about to do the same thing but emailed Rob first. I ended up somehow boogering up my relay, gotta troubleshoot after work. Here's how I did some of the wiring: http://imgur.com/a/Xhi4M

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by SloS14

I was about to do the same thing but emailed Rob first. I ended up somehow boogering up my relay, gotta troubleshoot after work. Here's how I did some of the wiring: http://imgur.com/a/Xhi4M

I've loomed my relay already but I'll try to see if I can take a couple shots for you guys. No guarantees for today though since I'm in Disneyland today.