Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[HunterGreene]

Originally Posted by luscious

How on earth is is possible to get "worthwhile" power gains for something that runs on 12v DC, and doesn't have an electric motor the size of Cleveland? I need to look a little closer at this......oh and how long can this thing stay on until the battery dies?

I take it you haven't truly read the thread? Its not "on" all the time, only during WOT, and only after you arm the system. You still have a battery dedicated to the remainder of power function.

Also, when it comes to electricity, its not the voltage that counts, its the amperage.

[mid_life_crisis]

Originally Posted by HunterGreene

I take it you haven't truly read the thread? Its not "on" all the time, only during WOT, and only after you arm the system. You still have a battery dedicated to the remainder of power function.

Also, when it comes to electricity, its not the voltage that counts, its the amperage.

I believe it's wattage (power) that is the most important number. This system gets it by running at 28 volts, which means it requires half the amperage to make the same power as it would at 14 volts.
There are three batteries. One runs the car. The other two are wired in series to make double the voltage of a normal car system. This means that there has to be a voltage converter to supply those batteries. That means an electrical power loss during conversion. The optimum system would probably have a second dedicated alternator wound for 28 volts to run the electrocharger system.

[brichard0625]

Wow this is great stuff...have someone custom tune it right and im sure this thing will be awesome...I def will invest in this if the price is right....197hp with 188lbs of torque seems perfect for this car n with added bolt ons this would be a great N/A car for someone who dailu drives it..if theres a way to make the batteries stronger do it!

[HunterGreene]

Alright, so my next question that we won't have an answer to for a while: What about those of us who DD our cars, even through the winter? Would it be a good idea to leave this mounted, or swap back to stock for the winter? How difficult would that be?

And during "normal" operation, how will the "booster" batteries operate? Will they provide any power to the car when they are fully charged?

[Robftss]

Fenton and Toma, thanks for your time. Toma, your jaw off the floor yet?

Very impressed with this engine's ability, with such a high compression even a 1/4 lb across the rpm range will surpass kits costing 2-3X more.

Once we tweak the transducer limit well..... locomotive torque!

For those interested in sequential, go to my site and then onto Wild Weasel's review, his compounded M45 Eaton made 8.5 psi @ turn one.

Rob

[jamesm]

Originally Posted by HunterGreene

Alright, so my next question that we won't have an answer to for a while: What about those of us who DD our cars, even through the winter? Would it be a good idea to leave this mounted, or swap back to stock for the winter? How difficult would that be?

And during "normal" operation, how will the "booster" batteries operate? Will they provide any power to the car when they are fully charged?

This is one concern that will have to be overcome. Lithium batteries (LiPo and LiFePO4) have serious performance issues in cold weather. Normally not a major issue until you get close to freezing temperatures, but the performance is still impacted as temps drop. There are lots of solutions out there, thermostat battery heaters and what not.

[fenton]

Originally Posted by HunterGreene

Alright, so my next question that we won't have an answer to for a while: What about those of us who DD our cars, even through the winter? Would it be a good idea to leave this mounted, or swap back to stock for the winter? How difficult would that be?

And during "normal" operation, how will the "booster" batteries operate? Will they provide any power to the car when they are fully charged?

Through winter the system will work if you have resilient batteries but you will need to heat them up for optimal performance.

LiPo is OBVIOUSLY going to be better but they have a MUCH smaller window at efficient power dump. We are going to entertain the idea just to see what they do but LiPo only likes to be charged a certain way and that requires more smarts in the controller in more cost.

I CANT stress this enough, the installation time is about 20 minutes. Fiddling to get the battery in and run the wires pretty is half the job lol.

The UN-INSTALLATION time is about 2 minutes, we did it right on the dyno between pulls.

[BlueLeader]

Originally Posted by fenton

Canadian 94. Has 10 percent ethanol.

Well it sure doesnt on the stock tune haha. But we are talking insane load. The supercharger is making about 4.8psi at 2000 rpm, extrapolate that based on the torque we made in the dip and we are talking 220tq at 2000 rpm.....crazy

its not so much the car, its the map. The map doesnt believe that this is possible at that low rpm. Toma is going to help us with that though

I wonder how this would fair in california usa water gas. 91oct no ethanol

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

[jamesm]

Originally Posted by fenton

Through winter the system will work if you have resilient batteries but you will need to heat them up for optimal performance.

LiPo is OBVIOUSLY going to be better but they have a MUCH smaller window at efficient power dump. We are going to entertain the idea just to see what they do but LiPo only likes to be charged a certain way and that requires more smarts in the controller in more cost.

I CANT stress this enough, the installation time is about 20 minutes. Fiddling to get the battery in and run the wires pretty is half the job lol.

The UN-INSTALLATION time is about 2 minutes, we did it right on the dyno between pulls.

no one with half a brain is going to put rapidly charging and discharging lipo batteries in their engine bay. that is a recipe for disaster. there are way too many variables that could cause the thing to incinerate everything around it. i've seen lipos explode from light impact, overcharging, excessive draw, just about anything can make them light up like a christmas tree. i have no experience with LiFePO4, so they may or may not be more stable. in any case, lipos are simply not safe for use in that type of environment.

here's an example:

[ame="http://youtu.be/YCWdnjLqVWw"]http://youtu.be/YCWdnjLqVWw[/ame]

[mid_life_crisis]

Originally Posted by HunterGreene

Alright, so my next question that we won't have an answer to for a while: What about those of us who DD our cars, even through the winter? Would it be a good idea to leave this mounted, or swap back to stock for the winter? How difficult would that be?

And during "normal" operation, how will the "booster" batteries operate? Will they provide any power to the car when they are fully charged?

Because the batteries for the electrocharger are wired in series, it would be an extreme pain in the nuggets to make them work with the primary electrical system.
Given how easy it is to install/uninstall the system, if I lived in an area that got cold enough that the batteries would become a weak point in terms of vehicle operation, I would remove it and put the normal battery back in when I put my winter tires on. One other option might be to pull the electrocharger and wire all three batteries in parallel for the winter. Triple the cold cranking amps. Even with the drop in function due to the cold, the three together might still do the job.

[HunterGreene]

Its good that it can be removed that easily, as opposed to the traditional turbo or S/C options. Almost makes it more practical

[Robftss]

Originally Posted by mid_life_crisis

Because the batteries for the electrocharger are wired in series, it would be an extreme pain in the nuggets to make them work with the primary electrical system.
Given how easy it is to install/uninstall the system, if I lived in an area that got cold enough that the batteries would become a weak point in terms of vehicle operation, I would remove it and put the normal battery back in when I put my winter tires on. One other option might be to pull the electrocharger and wire all three batteries in parallel for the winter. Triple the cold cranking amps. Even with the drop in function due to the cold, the three together might still do the job.

The set-up uses a PC-680 Odyssey equivalent for the starter battery, so there is tons of info on it. Calgary can go down to -30 C, so testing for this has been done, typically -10~-15 C is the limit for starting, but we all have block heaters here. I have started the VW in -20 C. The FRS has room for a starter battery double the size if required. Since the 'dump' batteries are in the engine bay and smart charged they reach temps quickly, + cold temps are denser so performance is maintained.

[Fish Eagle]

Originally Posted by fenton

The idea of this project is to give the FRS or BRZ a nice increase of torque and power on demand.

OP - well done!!

You've achieved some amazing results so far, and I'm sure there's more fine tuning to come.
This on-demand/part-time SC which creates a lot of extra torque in the midrange 100% suites my needs.

And especially... thanks for continuing to share with us despite a few arrogant and opinionated twits being rude and cluttering up your thread with their inane and totally useless chatter. Be assured that there are many more like me - who appreciate your efforts and are quietly watching this evolve with great interest.

[Yruyur]

Yay