Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[ddeflyer]

So I know that there is a big thread on brake pad compounds and such, but I figure I'd rather ask more specifically:

I'm going to be doing a double day at Auto club speedway in July. I'm not sure which tires I will be on by that point, but for the purpose of this lets assume some kind of R-comp. I also have the Essex Sprint kit. Suspension should still be stock though I'll have a weld in roll bar by this date (so stiffer body in case that makes any difference though I doubt it). No power adders are planned though I already have an oil cooler and catch cans so I should be keeping consistent power output despite heat.

What I am trying to figure out is which pads I should put on front and back. I have been using Ferodo 3000 in front and Ferodo 2500 in back. So far I have only used that combination on the track though from brake rotor paint I don't think I am heating the brakes up enough at Thunderhill or Buttonwillow (I think both tracks are easier on brakes so it probably doesn't mean much) to justify changing pads on the front from the 2500s I run on the street (haven't actually tried it yet).

At the same time, what are the best street able (as in not deafening to the poor pedestrians on the sidewalk) pads for use at tracks which are kinder to brakes? I don't mind changing pads (and I might start changing front rotors also) for the track, but I also like being lazy when it doesn't have much detriment.

Also I should have over twenty track days by this event.

Thank you

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by orthojoe

Did someone say glowing stock rotors?

Where you just recording the white 86 in front of you? You look very composed, no jabbing at the steering. By my estimation look like 7/10th driving max, like driving to the market to get some bread. Must be nice to have Laguna Seca as your home track.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by ayau

Track days are definitely not for your average budget even if you drive some beat up Civic. I think that's one of the reasons people do autocross instead even though the driving time is much less. It's still cheaper nonetheless.

Even karting can get pretty expensive depending how serious you want to get. Bottom line, all hobbies are a drain and a waste of money.

They can be a waste of money. Unless you have a very good excuse, like Mike does.

[RehabJeff86]

Originally Posted by solidONE

Where you just recording the white 86 in front of you? You look very composed, no jabbing at the steering. By my estimation look like 7/10th driving max, like driving to the market to get some bread. Must be nice to have Laguna Seca as your home track.

Im that white 86 in da video, so much traffic that day....

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

If you're running something like a sprint or endurance kit in the front, is running the OEM rear setup with a matching pad compound really going to provide proper balance to the brake system?

Yes; the pistons are specifically sized for the application.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ddeflyer

So I know that there is a big thread on brake pad compounds and such, but I figure I'd rather ask more specifically:

I'm going to be doing a double day at Auto club speedway in July. I'm not sure which tires I will be on by that point, but for the purpose of this lets assume some kind of R-comp. I also have the Essex Sprint kit. Suspension should still be stock though I'll have a weld in roll bar by this date (so stiffer body in case that makes any difference though I doubt it). No power adders are planned though I already have an oil cooler and catch cans so I should be keeping consistent power output despite heat.

What I am trying to figure out is which pads I should put on front and back. I have been using Ferodo 3000 in front and Ferodo 2500 in back. So far I have only used that combination on the track though from brake rotor paint I don't think I am heating the brakes up enough at Thunderhill or Buttonwillow (I think both tracks are easier on brakes so it probably doesn't mean much) to justify changing pads on the front from the 2500s I run on the street (haven't actually tried it yet).

At the same time, what are the best street able (as in not deafening to the poor pedestrians on the sidewalk) pads for use at tracks which are kinder to brakes? I don't mind changing pads (and I might start changing front rotors also) for the track, but I also like being lazy when it doesn't have much detriment.

Also I should have over twenty track days by this event.

Thank you

Properly bedded race pads will not make much noise. Unbedded race pads will make less noise if you stop "harder" by a little bit (~30% more brake pressure).

[GTHachiRoku]

The issue I've run into is after a week or two of daily driving, the transfer layer is gone and the noise comes back.

[orthojoe]

Originally Posted by solidONE

Where you just recording the white 86 in front of you? You look very composed, no jabbing at the steering. By my estimation look like 7/10th driving max, like driving to the market to get some bread. Must be nice to have Laguna Seca as your home track.

If you are saying that the car is being driven at 7/10ths the maximum capability, then you would be correct. 1:53 is 2 seconds off pace of Randy Pobst with marginally better tires.

If you are saying that the car is being driven at 7/10ths because it is composed with no jabbing at the steering, then you still haven't figured out that smooth is faster. If you still don't believe me, ask Walter Rohl. Tell him that he's driving at 7/10ths because he has minimum input in steering and his car is composed.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mEvoLbGRzF4"]Walter Röhrl & Porsche 911 Turbo S (991) @ Bilster Berg Drive Resort - Tracktest Fahrbericht Review - YouTube[/ame]

[ddeflyer]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Properly bedded race pads will not make much noise. Unbedded race pads will make less noise if you stop "harder" by a little bit (~30% more brake pressure).

Yeah, I I either don't get a very thick transfer layer or the Ferdo 3000 is fantastic at ripping it off because I keep having full deafening within a day of bedding

[retrosmiths]

Originally Posted by ddeflyer

Yeah, I I either don't get a very thick transfer layer or the Ferdo 3000 is fantastic at ripping it off because I keep having full deafening within a day of bedding

Same here with Project Mu HC+800 pads

Sent from my phone. Might have typos. Sorry.

[smbstyle]

Has anyone else had issues with boiling RBF600?

I ran two days at Sebring this past weekend; fresh RBF600 fluid, Cobalt XR1 fronts / XR2 rears, NT-01s, TF Brake Cooling kit with titanium shims, and 95*f ambient temps with a passenger the entire time.

In the afternoon I was pushing hard, and noticed each lap, the pedal travel was getting a little bit longer and longer, then backing off for a few laps, I still had a long pedal. Came in, bled the fronts, went back out and it was good for a few laps, then when again when I started pushing really hard, pedal travel was getting longer and longer after each hard lap. (wasn't pad knock-back; I was priming the brake pedal after each corner on the straight away thinking thats what it was, as I usually get knock-back after I get on the exit curbing).

I'm thinking it's not so much the RBF600, as I've never boiled the fluid before, but that was my first time running the Cobalt XR1 (usually run XR2 front), which is their most aggressive pad, and I've also increased my front brake bias by running a XR2 pad in the rear, which is putting more heat into the front brakes. That, plus the high ambient temps and an extra 200lb passenger the entire time probably contributed to it.

I think next time I'll just go back to the XR2 fronts and go to a better fluid like the RBF660 or Castrol SRF.

[ddeflyer]

I don't think I've boiled RBF600 but as an experiment I did several track days without bleeding the brakes (including one in rain). I did notice that I had lost some firmness in the brake pedal and by the last day I was wishing I could bleed them (I couldn't because I gave my two extra half liters of RBF600 to a guy who brought a four year old mustang with original fluid to the track).

When I did change the fluid, I found that the color of fluid in the calipers had gotten kind of nasty looking. Since I don't think I was really pushing the brakes that hard on any of these days I am a little concerned about that level of degradation in the fluid. All of these track days were over the course of three or four weeks too. As a result I've decided to give RBF 660 a try and see how that does.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by RehabJeff86

Im that white 86 in da video, so much traffic that day....

Your lines are so different. At first I thought you were just trying to figure out how to get a passing lane on the Beemer in front since he didnt let you by until later.

Originally Posted by orthojoe

If you are saying that the car is being driven at 7/10ths the maximum capability, then you would be correct. 1:53 is 2 seconds off pace of Randy Pobst with marginally better tires.

If you are saying that the car is being driven at 7/10ths because it is composed with no jabbing at the steering, then you still haven't figured out that smooth is faster. If you still don't believe me, ask Walter Rohl. Tell him that he's driving at 7/10ths because he has minimum input in steering and his car is composed.

I'm saying it seems like you are only driving to 7/10th of your ability and 7/10 of what the car and tires are able to do. No loss of traction no squealing tires. Dang... smooth like butter. lol

[RehabJeff86]

Originally Posted by solidONE

Your lines are so different. At first I thought you were just trying to figure out how to get a passing lane on the Beemer in front since he didnt let you by until later.

Ya dont study my line in the video, I had to constantly change the driving line due to slow traffic and also make room for high power to pass, wish i hv a good video to show haha


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkfQ

Edit: there are few clean laps around half way of the video after all traffic cleared and ya I was back to my usual driving line.