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Old 12-03-2013, 04:31 PM   #253
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Originally Posted by 7thgear View Post
do any of you use the "rain line"

long ago i was told that when it rains, you change it up a few feet to the left or right of the main line for better grip.

while others just stay on the same dry line, but i think this is tire compound dependent?
Yep, the rain line is off of the dry line because the dry line tends to be much smoother, with lots of rubbering in. That same "rubbered" in area of the track becomes slippery in the rain, which is why people will stay off the dry line in the rain/wet conditions. The rough surface texture on either side of the dry line is what provides more grip in the wet.

That being said, it is also very track dependent. Sometimes the dry line is where the track will dry first or quickest, or have the least number of puddles in the rain, so some people will stick to the dry line. No sense in running off the dry line if you are going to be encountering huge pools and puddles causing you to hydroplane.

Also watch out for painted surfaces! They become super slick in the wet, especially the tracks that have a wide, painted area at start/finish - lift over that area. I've seen the lowest HP cars go into the wall across some start finishes at Sebring in the rain, simply because they have their foot in it across the painted surface.
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Old 12-03-2013, 08:59 PM   #254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7thgear View Post
do any of you use the "rain line"

long ago i was told that when it rains, you change it up a few feet to the left or right of the main line for better grip.

while others just stay on the same dry line, but i think this is tire compound dependent?
Any winning racing driver will tell you: Drive where the traction is. Even in the dry, during practice sessions I'll take some varying lines through corners and compare what my butt feels is faster to what the data says is faster and often times my butt was right.

But when it rains, I'll often drive off line, there's usually a bunch more traction because it's a part of the track that has less rubber and oil on it.

If you watched the Formula 1 practice and qualifying sessions from the last race at Brazil you would have seen the F1 drivers doing exactly this the whole time. Going through the corners way off the line because there's a bunch more traction "out there".
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Old 12-04-2013, 03:06 PM   #255
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I have my first track day coming up (birthday present from a friend who has been trying to get me to go for a while).

I have autoxed off and on for about 5 years.

The car is largely stock. I did buy RCE yellows (not installed) but might sell them off to buy brake stuff (pads/fluid). We are going to Streets of Willow (run in reverse).

What do you recommend I do? Should I get something like Stoptech SP for just the front, both the front and the back. Deal with and learn from the experience of feeling fade in my first novice event?

(Technically this is my second track day...I wrecked at the nurburgring in the wet in a full car...etc...etc)
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Old 12-04-2013, 03:48 PM   #256
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Originally Posted by robot View Post
I have my first track day coming up (birthday present from a friend who has been trying to get me to go for a while).

I have autoxed off and on for about 5 years.

The car is largely stock. I did buy RCE yellows (not installed) but might sell them off to buy brake stuff (pads/fluid). We are going to Streets of Willow (run in reverse).

What do you recommend I do? Should I get something like Stoptech SP for just the front, both the front and the back. Deal with and learn from the experience of feeling fade in my first novice event?

(Technically this is my second track day...I wrecked at the nurburgring in the wet in a full car...etc...etc)
Pads and fluid is a great choice, and far more beneficial than springs, IMO.

Stoptech pads are street pads; I wouldn't recommend them for track. You're gonna fade stock pads, so why would you get a slightly upgraded pad that you're still going to fade? To me, that seems like a waste of money.

I'd recommend you start with Carbotech XP8 or Project Mu HC+800 as a starting point for the track. You won't fade either one with stock tires.

Project Mu G-Four (brake fluid) should last you a long time as well.

When are you going to SoWS? This Saturday? We have all of the items in stock so you can drop by and pick them up.
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Old 12-04-2013, 03:50 PM   #257
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Pads and fluid is a great choice, and far more beneficial than springs, IMO.

Stoptech pads are street pads; I wouldn't recommend them for track. You're gonna fade stock pads, so why would you get a slightly upgraded pad that you're still going to fade? To me, that seems like a waste of money.

I'd recommend you start with Carbotech XP8 or Project Mu HC+800 as a starting point for the track. You won't fade either one with stock tires.

Project Mu G-Four (brake fluid) should last you a long time as well.

When are you going to SoWS? This Saturday? We have all of the items in stock so you can drop by and pick them up.
Thanks for the advice. Possibly going to the one on the 28/29th.
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Old 12-05-2013, 12:11 AM   #258
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Question Big brake kit or brake ducts?

I currently have Ferodo DS2500 pads, stainless steel brake lines, and ATE super blue fluid. I happy with the braking, but they get smoking hot after a 30 minute session with 225/45R17 Michelin PSS tires. I'll be getting RS3s for next summer.

Do you think getting brake ducts would help much, or would I be better off biting the bullet and getting a big brake kit? Would you recommend the AP Sprint kit for NA or would that be overkill?

My local track is 3 miles in length and has 20 turns. On the fastest straight, I hit 107 mph.

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Old 12-05-2013, 01:34 AM   #259
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Originally Posted by CSG Mike View Post
I saw ANOTHER BRZ develop the misfire just this weekend... so I would recommend it...
stumbled across this... sorry im a bit clueless on this topic. I have a stock motor and dont plan on doing anything and keeping it stock while i track. can you please inform me a little more on this ECU update or does it not apply to me?

Thank you!
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Old 12-05-2013, 02:00 AM   #260
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Thanks for the advice. Possibly going to the one on the 28/29th.
Also, I had forgotten how expensive pads can be.

(the miata and the m3 spoiled me)
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Old 12-05-2013, 04:35 AM   #261
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I literally just finished my 1k mile break in and am going to buttonwillow this saturday. Going completely stock to see what the car likes (except its raining unfortunately). That being said, completely stock car, should there be anything to look out for/do before the track? I'm still on all factory oils also.
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Old 12-05-2013, 09:14 AM   #262
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Originally Posted by normancw View Post
I currently have Ferodo DS2500 pads, stainless steel brake lines, and ATE super blue fluid. I happy with the braking, but they get smoking hot after a 30 minute session with 225/45R17 Michelin PSS tires. I'll be getting RS3s for next summer.

Do you think getting brake ducts would help much, or would I be better off biting the bullet and getting a big brake kit? Would you recommend the AP Sprint kit for NA or would that be overkill?

My local track is 3 miles in length and has 20 turns. On the fastest straight, I hit 107 mph.

I'd have you consider the other AP kits, since you live up in a snow area. The Sprint kit is unpainted, and doesn't have dust seals, and won't do well in an area that sees salt.

A BBK is a more effective measure than ducts, but also costs more. Ultimately, you want both.
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Old 12-05-2013, 09:15 AM   #263
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Originally Posted by car_roll View Post
I literally just finished my 1k mile break in and am going to buttonwillow this saturday. Going completely stock to see what the car likes (except its raining unfortunately). That being said, completely stock car, should there be anything to look out for/do before the track? I'm still on all factory oils also.
If you've never been to the track before, you should be fine. If you do have experience, pads and brake fluid would probably be prudent.

-Mike
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Old 12-05-2013, 12:22 PM   #264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSG Mike View Post
I'd have you consider the other AP kits, since you live up in a snow area. The Sprint kit is unpainted, and doesn't have dust seals, and won't do well in an area that sees salt.

A BBK is a more effective measure than ducts, but also costs more. Ultimately, you want both.
Thanks. I don't drive the FR-S the winter so I think I should be OK with the Sprint kit - I also like that it doesn't have dust seals which might melt.
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Old 12-06-2013, 01:19 PM   #265
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If you've never been to the track before, you should be fine. If you do have experience, pads and brake fluid would probably be prudent.

-Mike
Similar question...

I'm going on the 28th to that event at SoW. The car has almost 3k on the clock. I will also be autocrossing it next weekend. Should I change the oil after the autox? After the track event? Before these??
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Old 12-06-2013, 01:28 PM   #266
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Similar question...

I'm going on the 28th to that event at SoW. The car has almost 3k on the clock. I will also be autocrossing it next weekend. Should I change the oil after the autox? After the track event? Before these??
Oil and brake fluid would be a good idea for autocross!
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