Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[FRStock]

4000 miles on the car, ~ 6 months old. Change oil before or after the 2-day track session?

Is it possible to get 3 days of tracking with stock brakes? Not sure I'll have enough time to get new ones and break them in.

[jvincent]

Change the oil before.

If you think you are going to drive the car hard, change the pads. You don't want to have your brakes go coming into a hard braking zone.

[AZP Installs]

Originally Posted by FRStock

4000 miles on the car, ~ 6 months old. Change oil before or after the 2-day track session?

Is it possible to get 3 days of tracking with stock brakes? Not sure I'll have enough time to get new ones and break them in.

When was your last oil change?
What track are you doing?
How many HPDEs have you done?

Mike

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by AZP Installs

On track I am running the following:

OEM setup w/re070 tires
AMB: 75-85 deg
Coolant: 215
Oil:260-275

OEM setup w/re070 tires and koyo rad
Coolant:199-205
Oil:260-275

We are going to try out an OTS oil cooler this coming week and will have some hard numbers after that.

Mike

I love the sidewall and look of those tires...

[CSG Mike]

OH man, I had to dig through the archives for this oen

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by FRStock

4000 miles on the car, ~ 6 months old. Change oil before or after the 2-day track session?

Is it possible to get 3 days of tracking with stock brakes? Not sure I'll have enough time to get new ones and break them in.

Definitely doesn't hurt to change the oil.

How long the brake last really depends on you, but if you have a half competent instructor your first day out, you'll want to upgrade.

You can break new pads in on track if you install them before the track day. It's actually the best way to bed in pads!

[AZP Installs]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I love the sidewall and look of those tires...

These are going on shortly...



Best deal for doing TT or HPDE with. Takeoffs from Bimmerworld, DIRT CHEAP.

-Mike Paisan


Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
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[CSG Mike]

Bump, in case anyone has questions

[ZionsWrath]

Track/DD car maintenance?

I'd say I'm putting less than 10k on my car a year. I'm trying to do at least 1 day a month (or a 2 day event if i can). Right now I've done 3 events (5 days) in the last three months. I'd estimate that totals maybe ~600 track miles.

What say on regular maintenance intervals. For example my brake fluid is now turning darker after my last event.

Brake fluid
Clutch fluid
Transmission fluid
Differential fluid
Engine oil/filter
Any other items I'm missing

[Tt3Sheppard]

Track day with a 100-110mph braking zone. Debating if I should run my Michelin Pilot Super Sports with about 4-5/32 tread remaining vs Goodyear Asymmetric 2 which have about 10k on them. Will I notice a big difference running street tires that are close to replacement, lack of grip etc?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

Track/DD car maintenance?

I'd say I'm putting less than 10k on my car a year. I'm trying to do at least 1 day a month (or a 2 day event if i can). Right now I've done 3 events (5 days) in the last three months. I'd estimate that totals maybe ~600 track miles.

What say on regular maintenance intervals. For example my brake fluid is now turning darker after my last event.

Brake fluid
Clutch fluid
Transmission fluid
Differential fluid
Engine oil/filter
Any other items I'm missing

Brake fluid: as needed or once a year, whichever comes first
Clutch fluid: once a year, using leftover fluid from doing the brakes
Transmission fluid: I do it every 10k on my personal car; fluid isn't expensive. A tank of gas costs more. 15k should be more than enough for most people.
Differential fluid: Same, I do every 10k on my personal car. Stock diff? Every 15k is more than enough. IIRC, factory interval is 60k?
Engine oil: Start with 5k if you're using a quality synthetic.

Trans/Diff/Engine fluid intervals are best determined by used oil analysis, but if you don't want to do that, changing more often won't hurt anything except your bank account. Remember that fluids are cheap insurance.

Also, all of the above is assuming you're using top shelf stuff (Motul Gear 300, 300V, or equivalent).

[jvincent]

After looking at some logs from yesterday's track session, I have a question about shifting.

My car is NA, with an OFT tune. The track I go to has 20 turns, including some very sharp ones.

My current approach to the sharp corners is to downshift into 3rd at the entry to these turns, keep steady power in third through the turn, and then accelerate out. According to the logs from Harry's lap timer I never get below 4000RPM in 3rd so I am well above the torque dip for the FRS.

My general question is would I be better off going into the turns in 2nd, thereby gaining a little bit of a power advantage coming out of the turn, but requiring an extra shift in the following straights to maximize my speed?

The wrinkle in this is that torque starts to fall off at around 6500 RPM so I'm not sure whether I would be in 2nd long enough to offset the shift.

[7thgear]

Originally Posted by jvincent

After looking at some logs from yesterday's track session, I have a question about shifting.

My car is NA, with an OFT tune. The track I go to has 20 turns, including some very sharp ones.

My current approach to the sharp corners is to downshift into 3rd at the entry to these turns, keep steady power in third through the turn, and then accelerate out. According to the logs from Harry's lap timer I never get below 4000RPM in 3rd so I am well above the torque dip for the FRS.

My general question is would I be better off going into the turns in 2nd, thereby gaining a little bit of a power advantage coming out of the turn, but requiring an extra shift in the following straights to maximize my speed?

The wrinkle in this is that torque starts to fall off at around 6500 RPM so I'm not sure whether I would be in 2nd long enough to offset the shift.

well, since you have the logger.. simply try it and see how the numbers look..




I generally would want to power out at maximum grip, so if you downshift to 2nd and don't spin/get squirrley, then do that

if 3rd gear keeps you better composed.. do that

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by jvincent

After looking at some logs from yesterday's track session, I have a question about shifting.

My car is NA, with an OFT tune. The track I go to has 20 turns, including some very sharp ones.

My current approach to the sharp corners is to downshift into 3rd at the entry to these turns, keep steady power in third through the turn, and then accelerate out. According to the logs from Harry's lap timer I never get below 4000RPM in 3rd so I am well above the torque dip for the FRS.

My general question is would I be better off going into the turns in 2nd, thereby gaining a little bit of a power advantage coming out of the turn, but requiring an extra shift in the following straights to maximize my speed?

The wrinkle in this is that torque starts to fall off at around 6500 RPM so I'm not sure whether I would be in 2nd long enough to offset the shift.

if 2nd isn't breaking loose, then yes, as long as your technique is sound.