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| Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 GT86 General Forum The place to start for the Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 | GT86 |
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#1 |
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General Shifting Q's
Hey everyone, I've been lurking the forums for quite a while and reading up on a bunch of stuff.
Wow, what a bunch of knowledgeable and friendly people on here! I have a few questions... 1. I recently just purchased my '15 FR-S MT and this is the same vehicle I "learned" to drive stick in and I am still having trouble to shift smoothly. I can get it pretty smooth but I feel like I'm burning the clutch because I think I might be clutching out too slow. Any tips to shift quicker without being jerky? 2. For city driving, what RPMs do you guys normally shift at for best MPG? What gear do you stay in for 35mph and 45mph zones? 3. When coming to a stop light or a stop sign do you guys clutch in then shift into neutral or let the car coast in a specific gear until a certain rpm before stopping? 4. Am I wearing the clutch down if I am in traffic and completely depressing the clutch? I normally don't do this unless its stop and go traffic and I know I'll need to move soon otherwise I stop and put it in neutral. Any other tips for MT driving is also appreciated. I didn't have anyone teach me how to properly drive a MT. Practically drove it off the lot with 0 experience and just driving it with instinct. Thanks
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#2 |
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1. shift faster. You only feather the clutch in 1st. Other gears, it's just clutch, shift and release clutch.
2. 1st gear about 3k rpm. 35-45mph 4th or 5th depending on if I need to accelerate or constant speed. Partial throttle saves a lot of gas. 3. Brake in gear, when I am going under 15mph I usually put it in neutral. 4. No, but if you feather it while trying to accelerate you are. If it jerks you forward, you are shifting too slow or not giving enough gas. If it jerks you backwards, you are shifting too fast or giving too much gas. |
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#3 | |
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Join Date: May 2013
Drives: 2013 FR-S, white, MT
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Quote:
![]() CONGRATULATIONS on your new purchase .... ![]() First off ....... a warmer transmission is a happier transmission, so let it spin for a few miles before you expect a smooth shift (especially the 1-2 shift). I would suggest that when shifting, wind up the last gear relatively tight (3-4,000 rpms) before shifting into the next higher gear. Also, when shifting from 1st to 2nd, pull the shift lever slowly and firmly into 2nd gear ....... same for 2-3 (except push it). It's not a toggle switch nor a lever on a game controller ..... the shift lever is connected directly to and is moving heavy transmission parts. I suggest you not "lazy leg" it and push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor. When coming to a stop, I suggest you leave it in gear till you are almost stopped, then push the clutch in and if it's going to be a long (more than like 5 seconds) stop, slip it into nuetral (saves wear on the throw-out bearing). I'd suggest you crank it up to at least 4,000 rpms before shifting. The little engine likes to rev. The clutch can be a little tricky for some folks, because the engine has relatively low torque and has a relatively light flywheel. You'll get the hang of it ..... humfrz |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to humfrz For This Useful Post: | kthxbai (06-25-2015) |
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#4 | |
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Do I need to apply throttle when releasing the clutch or should I only apply throttle after my foot is completely off the clutch? The line in bold, do you mind elaborating? I thought it was always best to push the clutch ALL the way in. |
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#5 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
"Lazy leg" is when we get into a habit of NOT pushing the clutch pedal all the way to the floor ..... and wonder why you get a notchy shift ..... ![]() The feeding of gas during shifting is sort of a tricky thing to explain. Generally you want to give it enough gas while you let out on the clutch, so the process of change is smooth. PS - "bliping" the throttle on the downshift makes for a smoother shifting experience. I hope this helps. humfrz |
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#6 | |
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#7 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Drives: 2013 FR-S, white, MT
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Personally, under average driving, I shift around 4,000 rpms. When I'm feeling frisky, I shift at around 5,500 rpms. I have my rev light set for 6,500 rpms. Why 6,500, because it takes this old goat a while to shift after the light, lights up ...and I can't hear the tone that mrs humfrz says goes off. Besides triggering the fuel cut off (rev limiter) really puts a damper on your little drag race ..... ![]() I don't reckon you will see a significant difference in gas milage between shifting ay 3,000 or 5,000 rpms ...... so, let the little engine spin up ..... ![]() humfrz |
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#8 |
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What my dad taught me 30 years ago in my '63 Bug was that the clutch and gas should be moving in opposite directions. It doesn't have to be totally literal, but that gives you an idea of how to move them so things are smooth.
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#9 | |
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From my very limited experience with my manual FRS, I believe these instructions will help a good deal. My main issue was shifting too slow and letting the RPMs drop too low causing the jerkiness when re-engaging the clutch. |
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#10 |
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Another piece of advice is to use your dead pedal. A lot of beginners tend to wear out their clutches by keeping their foot on the clutch pedal when they are not shifting. Your left foot should only be on the clutch pedal when you are in the act of shifting. Even if it's lightly resting on the clutch pedal, it could be enough to lift the pressure plate slightly off, causing it to lose proper contact.
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to MJones_RB For This Useful Post: | humfrz (06-23-2015), KellieRahne (06-24-2015) |
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#11 | |||
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It's pronounced "Rain"
Join Date: Dec 2014
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Practice, practice, practice. Drive a lot.
Quote:
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Practice, practice, practice. Drive a lot.
__________________
I want to be the girl with the most cake.
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#12 | |
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What you are describing is basically hitting your brakes without having your brake lights come on. Not only that, but if you aren't super light on the clutch, you will lock your wheels and have no brake lights on - and if you are going too fast when this happens, you will over-rev the engine. This is just a terrible idea all around. Brakes are way cheaper than a clutch and they have that added benefit of actually making your brake lights go on... On top of that you can be pulled over and ticketed for this...it'll be reckless driving if someone has to slam on their brakes and locks them up because you did this and a cop sees it. |
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#13 | |
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It's pronounced "Rain"
Join Date: Dec 2014
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Thanks for the warning about reckless driving. You must be a cop and have Virginia traffic law memorized. Like I said, everyone drives differently. How about you drive your way and I'll drive mine.
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I want to be the girl with the most cake.
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#14 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
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If your brake lights come on when you do this, have at it - you aren't hurting anyone. If you do this without your brakes.... well, everyone around you is going to care - a lot. If you get rear-ended because you locked up your wheels with no brake lights, you are going to be significantly at fault... The person rear ending you won't get off, but you won't either. And I couldn't be further from a cop... unless software engineers suddenly got a piece of that monopoly on violence and I'm just missing out... Where did you get VA from? I'm from WI...it says so right in the box next to my name. |
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