Ask for suggestion for header (BRZ AT)

[cslntuee]

I start to do some research related to upgrade my exhaust system

of my BRR AT version.

Here are what I need.

1. Kick out the torque dip.
(I'd be open to doing a tune and other exhaust components as well)

2. Will not lose torque in low rpm, due to I'm a daily driver.

3. Not too loud. (reasonably quiet which close to stock)

4. Hope can pass the inspection in PA

I thought that I should go with catted EL header and keep stock mid pipe and
muffler for the point 3 & 4 above.

However, I still have some unclear part as below.

1. Compared 4-2-1 and 4-1 cated EL header design which is more suitable
for AT version especially with stock over pipe, front pipe mid pipe and
muffler.

2. Do you suggest upgrade both over pipe and front pipe (or one of
them)?
I just worried will let AT car loss torque at low rpm or become too loud.

3. Can I still Kick out the torque dip by only upgrade the header (might
combine with tune) without other exhaust components?

4. Will cause any engine error light on issue? I remember there are two
O2 sensor in header area.

5. Will have any vibration issue, before tune the ECU?

6. How loud will be, if only upgrade the header?

7. Ceramic coating is only for aesthetic or also benefit for ex. heat
passivation or protection?

8. Which aftermarket brand of header did you suggest based on my
requirement?

9. Will there any issue passing the inspection by modified the header in
PA?

Thanks a lot for your help.

[killerkid08]

If you are going turbo, buy a header that works with your future system.

If supercharged, pick whatever you'd like.

[stockysnail]

If all you want to do is get rid of the torque dip just get a tune on your car as you don't need to spend all the money on exhaust as it doesn't do that. Exhaust will give very small HP increase with a sound change but the tune is where you'll notice the largest difference. If HP is all you want then save your money for a FI kit of some sort instead of buying all the other stuff like exhaust. Buy that after your FI kit.

[cslntuee]

Originally Posted by stockysnail

If all you want to do is get rid of the torque dip just get a tune on your car as you don't need to spend all the money on exhaust as it doesn't do that. Exhaust will give very small HP increase with a sound change but the tune is where you'll notice the largest difference. If HP is all you want then save your money for a FI kit of some sort instead of buying all the other stuff like exhaust. Buy that after your FI kit.

I read the HKS header production description before and thought the stock header is the key to cause the dip. I might be misleading.><

http://ft86speedfactory.com/hks-equal-length-frs-brz-header-665.html

(It has dyno image which shows with header can kill the dip.
However, they only show the HP one ><)

"

The Stock exhaust manifold was designed by the 4-2-1 type layout for a better performance for a lower engine speed torque. Because the first catalyzer is mounted at the exhaust manifold, exhaust pulsation motion that make the exhaust gas to pull back to the pipe at middle RPM range which cause a loss of output by behaving as an exhaust gas re-circulation."

http://ft86speedfactory.com/hks-equal-length-header-catalyzer-789.html

"

Exhaust Manifold is the key to the 86/BRZ power upgrade. The stock manifold has the catalyzer which prevents from better performance. But HKS catalyzer can provide more power because of the less resistance and better cleaning exhaust which passed the Japanese gas regulation.
It has more power because of the 4-2-1 layout design. It has less exhaust resistance so that has more power for the normal range to high RPM.

It's more comfortable driving experience because of the better performance at a normal range acceleration. And also at the high RPM it’s better feeling stock and fun to drive fast in the NA."

Thanks.

[FR-S Matt]

Originally Posted by stockysnail

If all you want to do is get rid of the torque dip just get a tune on your car as you don't need to spend all the money on exhaust as it doesn't do that. Exhaust will give very small HP increase with a sound change but the tune is where you'll notice the largest difference. If HP is all you want then save your money for a FI kit of some sort instead of buying all the other stuff like exhaust. Buy that after your FI kit.

Actually, the header along with the tune is what takes out the dip, not just the tune by itself. The tune does shorten the dip, but a header is the only item besides going FI to remove the dip completely with a tune.

Exhaust DOES matter if you combine the proper parts and do it right.

[FR-S Matt]

The header is actually the most crucially important part of the exhaust when running N/A. Overpipe and downpipe/frontpipe help a bit here and there. The back half of the exhaust is mostly for sound.

[cslntuee]

Originally Posted by FR-S Matt

The header is actually the most crucially important part of the exhaust when running N/A. Overpipe and downpipe/frontpipe help a bit here and there. The back half of the exhaust is mostly for sound.

HI,

Which brand or design ex. 4-1 or 4-2-1 you recommend for the AT version?

How about the over pipe also?

Thanks a lot.

[Mobius357]

For emissions and sound levels you'll want to stay catted. FA20Club and P&L both offer very similar 4-1 catted headers that eliminate the torque dip when tuned. P&L is still resolving fitment issues though, it seems hit and miss on who from the groupbuy had problems. I haven't seen any issues with FA20Club's header. HKS 4-2-1 header is availible catted too, but the only tuned dyno I've seen still had the dip. I'm not sure if there are other catted headers out there. You could also joint the crowd waiting on Nameless, their header seemed to turn the dip into a mountain of midrange.

Edit: I have P&L's header. The header itself only makes a mild increase in sound level. My car with a Perrin catted and resonated headerback is on the quiet side of loud territory.

[cslntuee]

Originally Posted by Mobius357

For emissions and sound levels you'll want to stay catted. FA20Club and P&L both offer very similar 4-1 catted headers that eliminate the torque dip when tuned. P&L is still resolving fitment issues though, it seems hit and miss on who from the groupbuy had problems. I haven't seen any issues with FA20Club's header. HKS 4-2-1 header is availible catted too, but the only tuned dyno I've seen still had the dip. I'm not sure if there are other catted headers out there. You could also joint the crowd waiting on Nameless, their header seemed to turn the dip into a mountain of midrange.

Edit: I have P&L's header. The header itself only makes a mild increase in sound level. My car with a Perrin catted and resonated headerback is on the quiet side of loud territory.

Compared with 4-1 and 4-2-1 which is more suitable for AT version?

Thanks.

[m.wood0213]

Not trying to threadjack but Im kinda in the same boat. I think ive come to the conclusion that I want a header to get rid of the dip (when paired w/ tune or piggyback), get a different tone, get some extra power, and to keep the factory exhaust for sleeperness! I also have an AT and mine is a DD so Im looking for best results w/o sacrificing comfort.

[kuhlka]

I just ordered the Rev Works UEL header for my AT BRZ. I eventually want to get a full header back resonated Perrin exhaust and get some ecutek tuning done at Accelerated Performance or Pure Tuning. Seems to me, this is the best combo to get a sound closer to my 05 STI.

[cslntuee]

Originally Posted by m.wood0213

Not trying to threadjack but Im kinda in the same boat. I think ive come to the conclusion that I want a header to get rid of the dip (when paired w/ tune or piggyback), get a different tone, get some extra power, and to keep the factory exhaust for sleeperness! I also have an AT and mine is a DD so Im looking for best results w/o sacrificing comfort.

What's your plan for the header, over pipe and front pipe (brand)?

Thanks.

[m.wood0213]

Originally Posted by cslntuee

What's your plan for the header, over pipe and front pipe (brand)?

Thanks.

I think Im going to keep the factory front pipe and over pipe. I dont want anything loud, raspy or lots of drone. If I went w/ new overpipe or front pipe it would have to be the nameless combo that replaces both w/ one piece w/ a cat. As for the header, im curious as to how and when nameless will release theirs. FA20 club's catted version is also a good choice. If I can be convinced that I don't need a cat in the header to pass emission i might go w/ Borla UEL CEL Fix kit from FT86SpeedFactory.

http://shop.namelessperformance.com/...aces-overpipe/

http://ft86speedfactory.com/borla-ue...-fix-1143.html

[Optimus Prime]

I'm in a similar boat. I want to keep my car NA for now until I see the reliability on a FI car with 50-100k on it (at most I'll be driving this 6-8k miles a year so I can wait a little).

Living in a PA county requiring emissions, I also have faced this dilemma. I think what it boils down to is that you either need a catted header or to get an uncatted header that you can get a spacer / defouler for. Personally, I'd rather just get a catted header. I haven't been able to dig up if doing that avoids all CEL (I think it does, but hoping for confirmation) and whether or not it will pass PA emissions(It should, but again, would like confirmation before purchasing).

As far as over/front pipes, that's all personal perference. I don't plan on changing -- at least not at first. Maybe some day.

Regarding best for AT? Again, I think it's all preference.

Regarding coating, I plan to do ceramic coating. If I remember my research correctly, the ceramic coating will better keep heat out of the engine bay...I think. Don't quote me on that.

So, basically I'm in the same boat. If I can get concrete answers, my plan is to go with an EL Header that's catted with ceramic coating. Currently leaning FA20Club due to P&Ls fitment issues. Whenever I'm ready to pull the trigger, if P&Ls issues are straightened out, I'll grab whichever of the 2 has a better price.

Sorry for the long post. I hope it helped at least a bit.