Installing Vortech SC, ran into a couple of issues

[HRTROB]

Hey guys, I'm about 8 hours into the install of my Vortech kit. I'm running into a couple of issues

1. I can't seem to get the new belt back in... It's too tight. I followed the manual's advice to fit the belt over the alternator pulley last. I still can't get it in.

2. I'm having a hard time threading the self tapping screws for the intercooler into the bumper beam. I used a 3/16 drill bit as suggested in the manual. So far I've only been able to screw in just one screw. The others aren't screwing in all the way.

3. Mine did not come with a MAP sensor. I only realized it halfway through the install. Can the car still be driven and tuned using the stock MAP sensor while I wait for the new one to arrive?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[AZFA20]

The belt will be tight but not impossible unless something else is not right. make sure the belt is completely seated on the other pulleys before trying to get it on the last one.

Secondly, I find that most installation problems relate back to inadequate tools being used. what are you using to manipulate that tensionor? The self tapping screws can be tough because the steal you are going into is hardened. Best bet there is to be certain you are using a driver that correctly fits the screws as to maximize its ability to transfer the torque you are applying regardless whether you are using a hand screwdriver, pneumatic, or electric.

In regard to the MAP, did you order a tuner kit? It will run but just stay out of boost. Not sure what tune you are using so it can depend on that to.

[HRTROB]

Originally Posted by AZFA20

The belt will be tight but not impossible unless something else is not right. make sure the belt is completely seated on the other pulleys before trying to get it on the last one.

Secondly, I find that most installation problems relate back to inadequate tools being used. what are you using to manipulate that tensionor? The self tapping screws can be tough because the steal you are going into is hardened. Best bet there is to be certain you are using a driver that correctly fits the screws as to maximize its ability to transfer the torque you are applying regardless whether you are using a hand screwdriver, pneumatic, or electric.

In regard to the MAP, did you order a tuner kit? It will run but just stay out of boost. Not sure what tune you are using so it can depend on that to.

Thanks for the input! I double checked the belt and it is completely seated on the rest of the pulleys. I'm using a short open-ended wrench to move the tensioner since my 1/2" drive sockets won't fit anymore after the blower is put in place.

For the intercooler self tapping screws, I used a ratchet and screwdriver-handle socket head. Still can't get the three screws in.

I'll be having the ECU flashed by a local tuner once installation is complete. Will it be okay to run the car with the stock MAP sensor after it is tuned?

[HRTROB]

One more question. Page 97 of the manuals says to install the check valve on the PCV line from the engine to the manifold. I have a Radium catch can installed. Do I install the check valve on the inlet line of the catch can (engine to catch can) or the outlet line (from the catch can going back to the manifold)?

[jamesm]

Originally Posted by HRTROB

One more question. Page 97 of the manuals says to install the check valve on the PCV line from the engine to the manifold. I have a Radium catch can installed. Do I install the check valve on the inlet line of the catch can (engine to catch can) or the outlet line (from the catch can going back to the manifold)?

i'd imagine you'll want to install the check valve such that the catch can doesn't see boost, so in between the can and the manifold.

[DJCarbine]

Originally Posted by HRTROB

Thanks for the input! I double checked the belt and it is completely seated on the rest of the pulleys. I'm using a short open-ended wrench to move the tensioner since my 1/2" drive sockets won't fit anymore after the blower is put in place.

For the intercooler self tapping screws, I used a ratchet and screwdriver-handle socket head. Still can't get the three screws in.

I'll be having the ECU flashed by a local tuner once installation is complete. Will it be okay to run the car with the stock MAP sensor after it is tuned?

Belt will be tight but it should go on. Are you able to fully manipulate the tensioner with your open end wrench or are you bottoming out on a bracket.... I've had the belts on/off quite a few times and I needed to adjust my grip with the wrench to get enough leverage to fully disengage the tensioner to slip the belt on/off.

For the bumper beam, grab some self tapping screws with a cutting head on them. It will widen out the holes you drilled, and use a drill to install them with a hex head bit. Self tapping screws put in by hand are usually an exercise in frustration IMO.

Which vendor did you buy the kit from?

Tuner kits don't come with a map sensor, and depending on where/who you buy a complete kit from you may or may not get a map sensor depending on the vendor. If it was supposed to come with one, contact your vendor.

Self tapping screws I used/would recommend are a hex washer head with cutting tip, you don't even need a pilot hole... just a drill with hex bit. They will drill their own holes and tighten up in a few seconds

Use this for reference if you decide to get these kinds of screws (home depot/ace etc.)

http://www.diytrade.com/china/pd/656...nc_plated.html

[AZFA20]

Originally Posted by HRTROB

Will it be okay to run the car with the stock MAP sensor after it is tuned?

Can it be done? Yes. Do I recommend it? No. You should get yourself a 2.5 Bar MAP sensor for your application. As far as the belt situation I imagine you are not swinging the tensioner to its full potential. This may be due to leverage in your case or your wrench is obstructed by something during the full swing.

Originally Posted by jamesm

i'd imagine you'll want to install the check valve such that the catch can doesn't see boost, so in between the can and the manifold.

Correct. This is where I have mine as well.

[Dezoris]

I had to slip the belt on at the water pump pulley and not at the alternator pulley was easier. But still a pain as said leverage is everything.

The self tapping screws included suck, use what DJ recommended.

Install the check valve on the output side of the radium can. You may have to change hose sizes to make sure its tight or switch hose and barb size on can. a PCV leak here will throw off your fuel trims when tuning.

[JDMsolstice]

- Make sure you're pulling the tensioner pulley all the way back. On the first attempt my wrench was hitting the dipstick thus not giving me enough room. But after repositioning my wrench I had MORE than enough room to put the belt on.

- No issues with the screws. Did you drill the holes straight?

- Get that map sensor! My omni 2.5 was only 100 bux. I would not drive it without one..

[HRTROB]

I finally got the belt in. Whew. I was certain that I was manipulating the tensioner to its maximum travel, but the belt just won't slip into the alternator pulley. The belt guide makes it hard to slip it in. What I ended up doing was doing the idler pulley just below the AC conpressor last. The rounded face of the pulley made it a breeze to slip it in

Also managed to screw in those pesky self tapping screws.

Now I understand the frustration of Dezoris in his install video. Lol.

I also contacted my tuner, he says he has a 3 bar map sensor in stock. So that is covered.

[HRTROB]

I ran into another problem. The blowoff valve box came with two springs and a couple of big round washers/plates. Am I supposed to use these? The manual makes no mention of these springs. Help please!

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by HRTROB

I ran into another problem. The blowoff valve box came with two springs and a couple of big round washers/plates. Am I supposed to use these? The manual makes no mention of these springs. Help please!

Can you post pics of that. Is it the Bosch bypass valve or another brand?

[AZFA20]

Originally Posted by HRTROB

I ran into another problem. The blowoff valve box came with two springs and a couple of big round washers/plates. Am I supposed to use these? The manual makes no mention of these springs. Help please!

Depends on what BOV you have. Typically it would have come with the Bosch bypass valve however, Vortech has been known to send turbosmarts in a pinch. Pic as mentioned would be best to determine what you have.

[HRTROB]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

Can you post pics of that. Is it the Bosch bypass valve or another brand?

Originally Posted by AZFA20

Depends on what BOV you have. Typically it would have come with the Bosch bypass valve however, Vortech has been known to send turbosmarts in a pinch. Pic as mentioned would be best to determine what you have.

Here's a photo of what was included. I opened it up and there is a red ring installed inside. Where do the giant washers go though? It came in a white box with no labels. There are no markings on the actual unit either