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| Mid-Atlantic DC, DE, MD, VA, WV |
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#1 |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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Trouble Changing Oil, Rounded Bolt =(
So I'm changing my oil, this is after I had a first complimentary oil change from a dealership service center. when I got my oil changed they scratched my bumper some how which I didn't catch until a couple weeks later when washing my car.
So I decided to change my own oil this time. I've changed the oil in every car I've ever owned. I've changed the oil on this car before at 1000 miles for the break in, no problem. Then the complimentary oil change above. Now I'm changing my oil and it is literally impossible to take the oil drain plug off. I used a 14mm wrench...and it rounded the bolt! so I tried using a vice grip, tightened as much as humanly possible. And it continued to round the bolt to where its not going to work anymore. So now I got a rounded bolt remover...and that doesn't work, it actually shreds the bolt more. The dealer must have tightened it way too much or used loctite on it or something. I don't actually care to save the bolt, since I'm replacing it with a valve. The bolt wont budge. Anyone have any tips or maybe can help me get this damn thing off? I need it done soon, since I will be autocrossing in the upcoming weeks. |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
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Did this myself a while back.
Take it to the dealer. They shouldn't charge you and they didn't charge me. I spent hours trying to get it off myself and then finally brought it to my buddy who works at one of those 10 minute oil change places up the road from me and he couldn't get it. Save yourself the hassle and just bring it to the dealer (if it's not too late in the day). Oh also, finally figured why it was so damn tight too. They used a god damn torque wrench to tighten the bolt...damn near smacked the tech that did my last oil change there... |
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#3 |
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If the bolt is dead to you, might as well drill it and get it out that way. Just be careful you don't nick anything else.
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
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You could try a can of spray duster and turn it upside down and try spraying just the bolt to get it good and cold and see if that will release it's grip.
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#5 |
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First thing...throw away all of your 12 point sockets and box ends. Always start a bolt with a 6 point socket or wrench. After it's loose you can change to a 12 point if the need requires.
Regarding your drain plug, it is clearly over torqued. This was done by the tech that changed your oil. So bring back to the monkey that used a breaker bar to install it and have him remove it. Remind him that here is a torque spec for the drain plug. If you want to do this yourself, you'll need a bolt extractor. This will require you to drill the drain plug and reverse tap it with the extractor. Once it is seated you'll be able put some torque on the bolt to remove it. Use penetrating oil on the bolt a few hours before you attempt to torque the extractor. An extractor kit is a great tool set to have. Unfortunately we all need one from time-to-time.
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#6 |
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Member
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Thanks guys! Yea I hate the dealership guys sometimes. But looks like I'm gona have to go back to them or find a shop that can help me out. I prefer not to deal with them cuz they suck. They also left my air box open after the oil change -_-
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#7 |
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Out of curiousity, which dealership did this?
The only other thing I can think of would be a cross threaded bolt, but even then it would eventually start to back out. |
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#8 |
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Member
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It was at the 355 Toyota in Gaithersburg, MD. I've never had trouble with them in the past, I took a Scion xA and a Corolla to them. Everything always went smoothly.
Just that day I took my FRS in, I had an hour and 45 min wait, and my air box was left unlocked and the plug over torqued. I won't being going to them again. I'm taking her into Pure Automotive since I've wanted to check out his shop anyway =D. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to RiceCooker For This Useful Post: | Pure Automotive (08-12-2013) |
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