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Old 11-21-2012, 04:15 PM   #1
raul
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Mod priorities...

I'm headed to Homestead on the 15th for an HPDE.

I am not sure which I should do first:

Camber bolts and Alignment: $150
Brake Pads, SS Lines and Brake fluid combo: $253

Already having a Grimmspeed master cylinder brace, which mod would you prioritize for the track? It will be my first track event. I've done some autocross before.

Last edited by raul; 11-21-2012 at 04:29 PM.
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Old 11-21-2012, 04:17 PM   #2
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Old 11-21-2012, 04:20 PM   #3
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brakessssss
What he said. The SS lines aren't needed either really, good pads and fluid are.
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Old 11-21-2012, 04:29 PM   #4
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Ok, any recommendation on pads? I'm hearing mixed reviews on Hawks, and great things about Stoptechs.
@Dave-ROR

Have you had a chance to test the Carbotechs?

Last edited by raul; 11-21-2012 at 04:51 PM.
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Old 11-21-2012, 04:50 PM   #5
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Ferrodos ds 2500
Motul 600
Sticky tires are your next mod
Have fun at track
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Old 11-21-2012, 04:55 PM   #6
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Ok, any recommendation on pads? I'm hearing mixed reviews on Hawks, and great things about Stoptechs.
@Dave-ROR

Have you had a chance to test the Carbotechs?
Hawks.. depends on the pad. Many are great pads, some I'd avoid.

We've run stoptechs on the race car on brake friendly tracks because we get them stupid cheap through some team-integra sponsor.

I ran Carbotech XP10s in front and XP8s in back. They work fine. My rotors were destroyed but I don't blame the pad at all for that. I'm going to raffle off what's left of the XP10s for the front for free here in a few days.

Ferodo makes some good pads, and Porterfield as well (01s, etc). There are good pads in almost every brand

What's your local track and how brake friendly is it?
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Old 11-21-2012, 04:55 PM   #7
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Ferrodos ds 2500
Motul 600
Sticky tires are your next mod
Have fun at track
^^ if you are anywhere near a novice, stay away from really sticky tires for now. Learn on tires that are more forgiving and that don't cover up mistakes first...
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Old 11-21-2012, 05:01 PM   #8
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Quote:
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^^ if you are anywhere near a novice, stay away from really sticky tires for now. Learn on tires that are more forgiving and that don't cover up mistakes first...
I plan to run my current tire until it dies, then upgrading some slightly sticker compound in stock size, and then when I feel that my tires are holding me back more than my skill, then I might upgrade wheel width and compound.

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What's your local track and how brake friendly is it?
My local track is really PBIR, but I'm running in Miami for this particular event.
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Old 11-21-2012, 05:11 PM   #9
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I plan to run my current tire until it dies, then upgrading some slightly sticker compound in stock size, and then when I feel that my tires are holding me back more than my skill, then I might upgrade wheel width and compound.



My local track is really PBIR, but I'm running in Miami for this particular event.
Ha I didn't even look at your location. Doh!

Homestead is fairly brake friendly, and PBIR isn't bad either. Most of the normal track pads should work fine, I doubt you'll see any crazy high brake temps at those tracks.
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Old 11-21-2012, 05:14 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave-ROR View Post
Ha I didn't even look at your location. Doh!

Homestead is fairly brake friendly, and PBIR isn't bad either. Most of the normal track pads should work fine, I doubt you'll see any crazy high brake temps at those tracks.
Awesome, thanks for all the help then. I'm probably going to get these then:

Hawk HP+ front
Hawk HPS brack
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Old 11-21-2012, 05:16 PM   #11
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Awesome, thanks for all the help then. I'm probably going to get these then:

Hawk HP+ front
Hawk HPS brack
Just leave the back stock.. I personally hate the HPS, HP+ will be fine for you now though. If you start doing more events at Sebring or some other tracks you can step it up a bit with a higher temp front pad.
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Old 11-21-2012, 05:23 PM   #12
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Awesome thanks for the help. I will be able to afford the alignment if I just do the front pad and fluid.
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Old 11-21-2012, 05:26 PM   #13
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Awesome thanks for the help. I will be able to afford the alignment if I just do the front pad and fluid.
And enter the raffle in my sig

The OEM crash bolts will give you about 1 degree of negative camber. I think the bolts are like $10 for both or $11, cheap either way. Install those for sure, you can do so without changing the alignment.
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Old 11-21-2012, 05:39 PM   #14
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Quote:
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And enter the raffle in my sig

The OEM crash bolts will give you about 1 degree of negative camber. I think the bolts are like $10 for both or $11, cheap either way. Install those for sure, you can do so without changing the alignment.
Are you serious? I can install those, push the strut in and not have to get an alignment? Everyone yells bloody murder at me when I suggest that, LOL.
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