When do you need adjustable toe links?

[SpeBud07]

I've got new RCE SS-1's sitting in a box with TWS T-66F (18x9.5) shod in 255/35/18's ready to go with them on our 2013 FR-S Build.

I've decided to get adjustable LCA's and am leaning toward a basic SPC set up. If I needed to lose weight there, I can upgrade later, but the driver probably needs to lose more weight than the car at the moment lol.

What about Toe Arms though? When I drop the car 1"-ish with this install, will I likely need to address rear toe?

[Tatsu333]

Originally Posted by SpeBud07

I've got new RCE SS-1's sitting in a box with TWS T-66F (18x9.5) shod in 255/35/18's ready to go with them on our 2013 FR-S Build.

I've decided to get adjustable LCA's and am leaning toward a basic SPC set up. If I needed to lose weight there, I can upgrade later, but the driver probably needs to lose more weight than the car at the moment lol.

What about Toe Arms though? When I drop the car 1"-ish with this install, will I likely need to address rear toe?

With that mild drop, the stock toe arms will be fine to get you the adjustment needed.

[dragoontwo]

I got the MOOG greaseable toe links with an SPL eccentric lock out. My reasoning was rubber bushing like stock, adjustable, greaseable and lockout will keep toe from possibly slipping.

[NoHaveMSG]

As long as you don't run a bunch of rear camber and reasonable ride height stock will be fine. The toe link attaches to the front of the rear hub, so more negative camber tilting the top of the tire in, toes the rear tires out. I am at like -2.5-2.6 in the rear. I had RacerX toe links and couldn't get them short enough at -1.5" ride height.

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by SpeBud07

I've got new RCE SS-1's sitting in a box with TWS T-66F (18x9.5) shod in 255/35/18's ready to go with them on our 2013 FR-S Build.

I've decided to get adjustable LCA's and am leaning toward a basic SPC set up. If I needed to lose weight there, I can upgrade later, but the driver probably needs to lose more weight than the car at the moment lol.

What about Toe Arms though? When I drop the car 1"-ish with this install, will I likely need to address rear toe?

You probably don't need adjustable LCAs or toe links. I'm lowered 1.25" and no probs with getting rear toe-in set to the ~0 to 0.1 degrees total I like with the factory toe links. And I'm at -2.5/-2.7 rear camber, pretty much right where I want it for street/track. Even for street-only, this is not excessive or problematic as long as toe is kept minimal...

[marco_mc22]

1) Not enough adjustment range
2) Get rid of eccentric adjustment + sloppy stock rubber bushings

I use hardrace pillow ball (sealed ones) links and I love them, easy to adjust when you perform string alignment, sealed pillow balls for durability and using custom eccentric lock shims has finally made rear toe durable, stock eccentric arms slip very easily especially if not torqued properly and car is a bit abused.

As other said you don’t need them but they’re a good upgrade in my opinion, even with rubber bushings.

[SpeBud07]

Originally Posted by ZDan

You probably don't need adjustable LCAs or toe links. I'm lowered 1.25" and no probs with getting rear toe-in set to the ~0 to 0.1 degrees total I like with the factory toe links. And I'm at -2.5/-2.7 rear camber, pretty much right where I want it for street/track. Even for street-only, this is not excessive or problematic as long as toe is kept minimal...

Thanks, I've had other discussions that said that too, which is my preference. I'm not really wanting to give up my factory bushings for sphericals just yet. I'm too old not to value my kidneys. If the race bug hits me again, I'll go that way for sure.