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| Wheels | Tires | Spacers | Hub -- Sponsored by The Tire Rack Specific topics relating to wheels and tires. |
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#1 |
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17 inch vs 18 inch
I know I'm Guna get jumped at with "do research" "search button is over there" "uh I hate it when people want to be spoon fed" but I'm Guna post it anyways because I want recent opinions on this topic
Recently, I plasti dipped my rims I fell in love with the way they looked. I'm currently shopping for a set of Michelin pilot super sports. I could afford new rims but I really like the way the oem rims turned out plasti dipped and glossified. If I was to buy new rims, I would definitely buy 18 inch t37 reps. Which brings me to my question. From all the research I did about upsizing tires, the benefits are "they look good and fill the wheel well" which I don't care for as I'm getting flex z coilovers next month or so and "better handling" which is questionable because the car already has good handling. Wouldn't bigger tires make it sloppy due to the fact that the car doesn't have that much power thus ruining the ride? Also, wouldn't the 0-60 time decrease as a result of big tires? Aren't you also gaining weight by putting bigger tires? Has anyone put 17 pss on their oem rims? Again, I don't mind buying new rims as I have the budget for it but at the same time, id rather spend it on something more useful. Thanks for reading my post! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#2 |
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Only happy when it rains.
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bigger tires and wheels always adds weight, always makes the car feel and accelerate slower, and is always a terrible idea.
There are tons of people on near stock size PSS or other wheels. Unless you are going racing or have cash to burn, no reason to get gigantic tires. 205 or 215 size 17's are going to feel awesome. |
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#3 | |
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Quote:
Exactly what I was thinking! Lots of people I've seen in car meets and in forums run 18 inch tires and I've never understood why. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to allowe For This Useful Post: | Taka (06-08-2017) |
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#4 |
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*Some really cool title*
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Get a lightweight 17x8 or 7.5 wheel with 215 or 225 PSS. You can get 17x8's that are much lighter than stock for a decent price. 18's will almost always be heavier, and if they aren't then they'll be worth a fortune.
Tire compound matters more than wheel size, but with same tire more width = better grip but slows the car down. Going 5 pounds lighter on each corner will make a world of a difference. |
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#5 |
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Wes
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I never measured my 0-60 before I went from 17 to 18. Is it slower? Definitely not, cause the bigger rims are a pound lighter than the stock rims. I bought the Enkei Raijin (20.2 lb vs stock 21 lb). I have the mpss, which increased grip. The car feels faster everywhere and looks better.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to StraightOuttaCanadaEh For This Useful Post: | vintagemxer (06-09-2017) |
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#6 | |
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Won't those be really pricey? What set of rims do u recommend? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#7 | |
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17 inch vs 18 inch
Quote:
From what I've found on forums, stock rims are 20.1 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#8 |
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*Some really cool title*
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Silver Cervy For This Useful Post: | why? (06-08-2017) |
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#9 | |
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I'm not trying to sound cheap but wouldn't it be better if I spent that cash on a set of coilovers and just use my oem rims. Is the difference worth a grand? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#10 |
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If you don't track your car and only do spirited street driving, then there's nothing wrong with stock size Michelin PSS on stock size wheels. That's what I've run for the majority of ownership and there's plenty of grip available. I feel stock sizing is the most agile for tight corners and quick transitions and wider setups are better for high-speed sweepers (I ran 17x9 with 245/40 at one point), so it depends what you value more.
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#11 | |
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I don't have the guts to track my car yet nor do I think I will anytime soon (not scared of myself, more scared of someone else hitting me) I do a ton of back roads driving with lots of Windys (About 50 km a day or so) after work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#12 |
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Off Topic
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If you want to change the look or if you want to run a tire that you can't run on your OEM wheels (like 245s or 255s), then new wheels may be worth the money to you. If you're happy with the OEM look and you don't plan on running more than a 225 tire, then there's no real reason to buy new wheels. The only reason you would need 18's is if you were running a 345mm or bigger brake kit, which most people don't. You can definitely get 18's that weigh less than OEM, but you can also get 17s that weigh much less than OEM. You sacrifice a bit of sidewall going to 18's, which means sacrificing a bit of ride comfort. But you'll sacrifice ride comfort anyways when going to MPSS, because their sidewall is very stiff.
In the end, if you don't have a physical need for 18's such as bigger brakes, it's entirely subjective to what you want and what you think looks good. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to gramicci101 For This Useful Post: | allowe (06-05-2017) |
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#13 | |
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As much as I hate the brakes our cars come with, I'm not down to blow like 3 grand for brakes. As for stiffness, I have no problem with that as my old Sentra spec v was lowered on very stiff springs and I quite like feeling the road haha. Thanks a lot for your post! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#14 | |
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Off Topic
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Quote:
If you don't track and you've never gotten them to fade on canyon roads, just throw a master cylinder brace on and see how it feels. If you want it firmer, go for stainless lines and new pads and fluid. A word of caution: stainless lines need to be inspected every so often to make sure they aren't fraying. The best way to improve your brakes is to get better tires. No matter how awesome your brakes are, you can only slow down as hard as you can hold onto the ground. |
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