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| Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing. |
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#1 |
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front sway bar and endlinks question
I was wondering does my car have to be on the ground when i tighten everything up? I dont have a lift or blocks to riase my car so i can get under it
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#2 |
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If they aren't adjustable it doesn't really matter.
If they are adjustable, I have no idea other than turn the wheel. Or measure it on the ground, and then adjust to length. |
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#3 |
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AutoX-10/10ths every run
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If you have adjustable end links the car should be on flat ground when adjusting them. The ideal adjustment on them is ZERO preload on either side.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to whataboutbob For This Useful Post: | strat61caster (12-30-2015) |
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#4 |
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I am going to use the perrin endlinks and sway if that means anything
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#5 |
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Both wheels have to be under tension or the sway bar may bind up(then you get really weird clunking buses when turning). Go to your local home improvement store and get some blocks. Should be couple bucks a piece. Set the wheels on the blocks and pull your jack out, tighten bolts/nuts, rejack, remove blocks, burn rubber.
Took me a couple months to figure out the clunking. I don't know if your end links are adjustable but you may have to get adjustable to avoid the sway bar and other components colliding or your endlink ball joints maxxing out their travel. My rears did this and under load they too would clunk, got adjustables and that fixed that problem |
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#6 |
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yes i dont think my endlinks are adjustables
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#7 |
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The Stig's German cousin
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Alternatively, you can do the following
1. Measure your ride height from hub center to fender on each side before putting the car in the air 2. Install swaybar, rotate sway bar to desired position, attach both endlinks to the sway bar (but not the strut yet) 3. Jack up one front control arm until the hub-fender measurement equals your ride height. 4. Change endlink length as appropriate. 5. Attach endlink to the strut. 6. Leaving this side jacked up, repeat steps 3-5 for the other endlink. If you only have one jack, what you'll need to do is perform steps 3 and 4 for each endlink first, then attach both of them. This won't be perfectly zero preload but it's close enough. Lots of preload can be bad because the sway bar will be too stiff one direction and not stiff enough in the other, but small amounts of preload are tolerable. |
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#8 |
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Yes they need to have preload and then you can torque them down!
So invest in some budget Rhino Ramps and load the car on it then tighten it all up otherwise it will clunk and make noise! |
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