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| Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for! |
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#1 |
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Grip>Drift
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Messed up stud!!!
When I was putting my DD wheels and tires back on this afternoon one of my lugs was SUPER hard to get off so new if was effed right away. Sure enough the threads are not happy (please see picture below). Mega bummer...
What's the best way to fix this, replace the stud? I've been thinking about getting extended studs, anything else to think about when doing that if I decide to upgrade? What could have caused this? I've been autoXing for a few years and I've done plenty of wheel/tire changes and this has never happened before! Could the cheap lugs have contributed? Thanks in advance friends! Shitty cell picture:
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#2 |
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Senior Member
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There's a post in the DIY forums on how to replace the stud. . .replacement or extended.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to cnk For This Useful Post: | BlaineWasHere (05-20-2013) |
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#3 |
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Honestly I would think you should have no problems with the upgraded ARP studs.
The stock wheel studs seem weak. I see metal shavings constantly when taking my tires off when working on the car or changing suspension settings (only torquing at 80 ft/lbs). Stripping the studs over time it will just fail eventually. Never had this problem on any of my previous cars (97 turbo miata, 06 STI, 09 Z06). The miata stood up a lot better than I thought it would being an older car. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Squishy For This Useful Post: | BlaineWasHere (05-20-2013) |
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#4 |
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Godzilla Konvert
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I did the exact same thing day 2 after owning my car
I just got a new stud at the dealership $20 plus new lug http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35949
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#5 |
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Grip>Drift
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So I picked up FIVE studs from the Subi dealer for $2.17 each! Toyota wanted $7 each and they don't even stock them so 4 day lead time!
I assume Subi stocks them because they are the same as WRX studs, I also assume that's why Toyota charges more because I bet they buy them from Subaru. I'm autoXing again next MONDAY so I wanted to get rolling on it ASAP!
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#6 |
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If you used an impact gun and run the lug up quickly it is easy to cross thread or jump threads.
Too much torque caused by bouncing on a torque wrench or overtorquing can also stretch the lugs.
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#7 |
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Grip>Drift
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I'm 99% certain the later of what you described is what I did. I was just being quick and careless. Lesson learned.
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#8 |
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Hadouken
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Just curious what kind of lug nuts are you using?
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#9 |
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Yeah had to replace my studs with ARP extended studs after a track day. They were stretching. Stock studs are weak.
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#10 |
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Overthinking it
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For the last few cars I've raced, I keep a few spare studs around just in case. Better to have them and not use them then need them and not have them.
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#11 |
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Grip>Drift
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Yeah, I'm gonna put these in so I can autoX Monday but I'm pretty sure I'm gonna order ARP extended studs soon. I wanna have the flexibility to run 5mm spacers for brakes or whatever going forward also.
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#12 |
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some aftermarket steel lug nuts are made of material often times stronger than the stud itself which can lead to strip/cross threading if installed improperly.
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#13 |
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NASA SpecE30 Racer
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Did you have any anti-seize or lube on those threads? I don't see any.
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Street/Track Car: 2006 Honda S2000 TT3 || Race Car: 1987 BMW 325is SpecE30 || Tow Vehicle: 2014 RAM 1500 EcoDiesel Sold Cars: 2012 BMW M3 || 2013 Subaru BRZ || 2012 Porsche Cayman R || 2009 Chevrolet Z06 || 2009 BMW M3 || 2004 BMW M3 || 2004 Nissan 350Z |
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#14 |
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Grip>Drift
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I don't ever use any lube or anything on the threads. Last thing I need is lugs coming loose at autoX or the track!!
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