17x9 issues…

[Jmk91]

I bought a set of aodhan ah06 17x9 + 35 (no rubbing issues) wheels with pirelli p zero a/s 245/40 tires. Has them installed at good year because website said they road balance… Nope regular balance only and it set me back 90 bucks to get tires put on and balanced. The car felt totally off like 70 mph my steering wheel was vibrating like a mother. Car has 7k miles so I went to a different tire place knowing my balance was wrong… This shop claimed 2 of my new tires where not round enough so I called discount tire direct and got two replacements. Let that shop install the tires and same shit happens I get vibration above 80ish. So today I went to a 3rd shop that’s well known and spent another 100 bucks to get my wheels road force balanced. Car is the best it’s been prior to stocks but still doesn’t quiet feel right… is this because I went up to 9 inch wide tire or what. I’m about done with tire shops. Each one is saying the prior one didn’t balance them right. I’m over here 250 bucks down from trying to get my car to drive like it did on stocks. Oem my car was perfectly fine at even 100. I have project kics lug nuts with the 60 degree taper, also the rings are installed on the wheels. Like I’m about to give up like anyone have any ideas lol. It honestly feels like my wheels are still not balanced correctly or something isn’t fully round. I had the shop check the wheels for run off and they’re fine.

[CrowsFeast]

It seems completely impossible with modern tires, but perhaps the tires are defective and the belts are actually shifting inside? Had that issue with my mom's pathfinder years ago.

Also chalk mark the sidewall to the wheel, see if they're shifting at all.

[Yoshoobaroo]

Are the wheels true? Jack the car up and spin the wheels, then look at the bottom edge of the wheel while holding a ruler next to it to see if it ‘bounces’. Repeat for the inside of the wheel.

[series.trackday]

I had a similar issue with a tire years ago. It turned out that it was manufactured with a defect, the belt had delaminated from the tread - visually it was impossible to tell, it balanced true on a old-school balancer and a roadforce balancer; but it vibrated like hell on the road. This might be a hard thing to do, but try swapping each of the wheels and tires with a spare, and seeing if removing one tire/wheel from the equation makes the vibration go away.

[86league]

With a 73.1 centerbore, are the wheels being installed carefully to ensure the lugs are centering them properly? Using centering rings?

[Calum]

Originally Posted by 86league

With a 73.1 centerbore, are the wheels being installed carefully to ensure the lugs are centering them properly? Using centering rings?

The holes and lugs are tapered. You would have to put a lot of effort into trying to misalign them to get them not centered.

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[Yoshoobaroo]

Originally Posted by Calum

The holes and lugs are tapered. You would have to put a lot of effort into trying to misalign them to get them not centered.

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These spindles are hubcentric, not lugcentric. The hub ring is machined to a much tighter tolerance than the stud holes. Without centering rings it will not work as designed, even with tapered seats. ~5000 lbs of clamping force doesn't care that the stud wants to be a bit more to the left/right/up/down, the stud will move.

[Jmk91]

Originally Posted by Yoshoobaroo

Are the wheels true? Jack the car up and spin the wheels, then look at the bottom edge of the wheel while holding a ruler next to it to see if it ‘bounces’. Repeat for the inside of the wheel.

That’s next on my list. I had the tire shop check but you know how that goes. I’ve never had issues in my life like this. I’ve had wheels and tires on all my cars and no issues. Also yes for everyone else I have the correct rings and lug nuts.

[CrowsFeast]

Originally Posted by Yoshoobaroo

These spindles are hubcentric, not lugcentric. The hub ring is machined to a much tighter tolerance than the stud holes. Without centering rings it will not work as designed, even with tapered seats. ~5000 lbs of clamping force doesn't care that the stud wants to be a bit more to the left/right/up/down, the stud will move.

That's why there's a torquing sequence and why you should snug them all up in sequence prior to torquing them. My summer wheels are definitely not the right hub diameter but I've never had a vibration problem because of it.

Ideally the ring adapters I bought would have fit, but they didn't, and I haven't had a problem anyway. OP has clarified that they have rings anyway.

Originally Posted by Jmk91

I’ve had wheels and tires on all my cars and no issues.

If you didn't have wheels and tires on all your cars I would have more questions!

[strat61caster]

If vibrations are all gone now the alignment might be the next thing that the wider tires are amplifying.

Don't forget different tires will feel different in terms of how they turn, handle bumps, road noise, tramline etc