Replacement 'stock' rotor suggestions for track?

[Open Loop]

Howdy, y'all. I have started doing more track events, which has led me to run harder front brake pads, which is now leading me to this: I am looking for SSC legal rotors that are inexpensive, won't warp, and do what they are supposed to do. I generally buy Brembo rotors but I am open to suggestions. Centric? Toyota dealership? Interested in your thoughts. Thank you.

[dstrout]

Basic solid iron rotors . Duralast, Centric, etc. they will last a long time even on a track car and they are cheap to replace. IMHO this is one place you don’t really need to “upgrade “.

[finch1750]

Rockauto.com

Centric C-tek are usually cheapest and work fine on track so far. The rotor hats just aren't coated so they can get surface rust.

[Tristor]

Most of the local guys I know using stock rotor styles are using Centrics, so pretty much just echoing what has already been said here.

[Code Monkey]

I am running KNS Brakes blanks; they are re-branded DBA.

[Sleepless]

+1 for Centric.

[CSG Mike]

Cheap Centrics are just fine for your application.

[atomicalex]

Originally Posted by dstrout

Basic solid iron rotors . Duralast, Centric, etc. they will last a long time even on a track car and they are cheap to replace. IMHO this is one place you don’t really need to “upgrade “.

Got to agree here. I ran every imaginable combinations of pads/rotors on my old track rat (seriously, 20 brake setups in about 150K miles), and in the end, basic cast iron vented rotors with no fancy pants crap were the hands-down winners for both price (duh) AND performance. The only rotors that had any kind of benefit were old Ate Powerslots, which had the spirograph pattern on the faces and shed dust a bit better.

No drilling!! Whatever you do, no drilling. Cast-in holes are ok, but you lose friction surface. Good cast-in vent channels between the inner and out faces are the way to go.

So, yeah, cheapo cast rotors = happy brakes and happy drivers!

[rice_classic]

With Centric (fronts) you have 3 P/Ns ranging from $22-45.

1) 121 (c-tek)
2) 120 (premium)
3) 125 (high carbon)

These all end in 47021 (ex: 125-47021)

I've been competitively w2w racing for 14 years on a car that is wildly under-braked. I would put C-Tek on my street car all day long (my ford expedition loves them) but I have found that I actually saved money by spending more on the rotor due to a greater life cycle.

I finally ended up committing solely to the High-Carbon (125) series. They have an incredible resistance to cracking due to multiple hot-cold duty cycles which makes them ideal for hard track use and daily driving.

Here's the difference on my race car:
- Brembo blanks/autozone/cheap Chinese = <1 race weekend. Maybe 2 rotors in a single weekend (unacceptable).
- 120 Series = 2 races, usually 2 whole race weekends (very good on my car) and then I would pro-actively change due to cracking
- 125 Series = 3-4 race weekends which is outstanding.

So I went from changing rotors every race to every 4 races which for the extra $ spend on the 125 rotors is a huge money/time savings.

On a car like the FRS which has a much better "brake-to-weight" calculation than my underbraked race car, expect quite a bit of life out of 125 series.

[Takumi788]

+1 for centric premiums

[CatDaddysBBQ]

I agree that cheap centric would work well. I have oem-fitment DBA T3 one piece and love them, but can't say they're THAT much better and are sizably more expensive.

I had overheating issues on track so I went that way because they supposedly have superior cooling due to design. I have since not had anywhere near as much trouble with too much heat in the brakes, so I DO like them though...