Which type of torque wrench do you prefer?

[Hanakuso]

Does the cheap ones do the job just as well as the $100+? I'm also wondering about all the types and which is best suited for us. (Digital, Needle, Click, etc). My friend that's a mechanic said he likes the needle type but didn't explain why.

Basically I'm just looking at buying a new torque wrench and I'm wondering which type and brand.

[mechaghost]

I like the click type because you can't over torque the bolt

[Draco-REX]

Originally Posted by mechaghost

I like the click type because you can't over torque the bolt

YES YOU CAN!

Needed to get that out there in unequivocal terms. All the click does is tell you when you've hit the proper torque. Once the click occurs, it becomes a regular ratchet past that point, it does not start to free-wheel the socket.

I watched a guy at a tire shop carefully set a torque wrench to do the lug nuts on one of my cars, tighten them to the proper torque, and then proceede to BOUNCE on the wrench. I was speechless. Those lug nuts had about twice the torque on them than they should and it took quite a bit of impact work to get them loose.

Once more, a torque wrench does NOT limit the torque you apply. It only NOTIFIES you when you have hit the appropriate amount of torque. Continuing to tighten after a torque wrench clicks, beeps, or otherwise indicates you've reaches your desired torque will only over-torque what you're working on and possibly damage the wrench.

[Draco-REX]

Back to the OP: I prefer the click-type due to reasonable cost and easy notification. If I can't get a square-on look at what I'm working on a needle-type won't work, whereas a click-type will let me know by ear no matter where I'm looking.

The electronic type as just as useful, but much more expensive. I don't mind twisting my wrench to set it.

Another benefit to the click and electronic type is that they can be rebuilt as needed. The Needle type while often much cheaper can't be rebuilt and must be replaced when it falls out of spec. In the short term that could be a better deal since needle type wrenches are about half the cost of the click type. But in the long run it's cheaper to rebuild a click type.

[Calidrifter]

Thanks for putting that out there as I don't think some people are aware of how torque wrenches work.

[Hanakuso]

Originally Posted by Draco-REX

Back to the OP: I prefer the click-type due to reasonable cost and easy notification. If I can't get a square-on look at what I'm working on a needle-type won't work, whereas a click-type will let me know by ear no matter where I'm looking.

The electronic type as just as useful, but much more expensive. I don't mind twisting my wrench to set it.

Another benefit to the click and electronic type is that they can be rebuilt as needed. The Needle type while often much cheaper can't be rebuilt and must be replaced when it falls out of spec. In the short term that could be a better deal since needle type wrenches are about half the cost of the click type. But in the long run it's cheaper to rebuild a click type.

Thanks. I was looking at the CDITorque ones. Would you recommend these if you have any experience with them? I believe they are owned by snap-on. Seems expensive but i'm not sure if that high of a quality tool is needed.

I'm also wondering if it's nessesary to buy multiple torque wrenches. People have said you should only use them up to the rated specs of 10% min/max.
Example: 0-100 torque wrench should only be used for 10-90.

[Dave-ROR]

Like Draco said, there is nothing about a torque wrench that will prevent you from applying too much torque to a bolt.

I use calibrated click type wrenches (Snap-On's specifically). I've used beam type and I don't prefer them as they aren't always easy to read depending on angle, where the wrench is, etc. I've used electronic and don't like them either, all of the ones I've used (all Snap-On, perhaps the bahavior is different for other brands) start to vibrate a little before the set torque to alert you that you are at the torque spec or close to it anyways.. if you don't start watching the readout you might not apply enough torque, and if you go back for a second attempt to get that extra 6ftlbs I normally would end up with an extra 15...

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by Hanakuso

Thanks. I was looking at the CDITorque ones. Would you recommend these if you have any experience with them? I believe they are owned by snap-on. Seems expensive but i'm not sure if that high of a quality tool is needed.

I'm also wondering if it's nessesary to buy multiple torque wrenches. People have said you should only use them up to the rated specs of 10% min/max.
Example: 0-100 torque wrench should only be used for 10-90.

I've never used the CDIT stuff.

It depends on the wrenches calibration. Mine are pretty accurate across the range BUT they are always more accurate in the middle. IE most of mine are off 1-2 ft lbs (or inch lbs depending on the wrench) at both extremes but dead on in the middle.

I personally use 4 wrenches that range from a min of 5 in-lbs to a max of 250 ft-lbs.

What you'd want depends greatly on what you'll be doing. If you plan on doing engine rebuilds you'll need more than someone who just plans to do brakes, wheels and suspension.

[Tainen]

After talking to the mechanics at cummins, who mostly use really high end stuff, they tell me for weekend mechanics, for torque wrenches, harbor freight is really the way to go. I was pretty surprised by that, but their reasoning was that when they send their torque wrenches out to get professionally recalibrated, they often times get worse or no better than before, whereas when compared to a new harbor freight, the harbor freight is pretty much always more accurate than a very, very expensive recalibrated wrench.

So their recommendation was to get the harbor freight torque wrench, and replace it every few years and/or until it breaks, and not to bother with recalibration. Unless of course your tools are your life.

Works for me. My 1/2" Harbor Freight torque wrench was $22, and is still fairly accurate.

[Calum]

In the end, the most accurate torque wench in the world is barely adequate. It's a hell of a lot better then not using a torque wrench, but I wouldn't get too hung up on it as long as the accuracy is reasonable.

When you tighten a bolt what your doing is stretching the bolt so that it is in the middle of its elastic range. (unless its torque to yield bolts). Meaning, the bolt is stretched but to a point that it will not be permenatly deformed. The only true way to measure this is by using a strain gauge, which I'm willing to bet none of us have. The next best would be to measure the amount of stretch in the bolt. Aside from the expense of either of these types of measuring equipment, you almost never have enough room to use them in an automotive application.

So, I'll second the harbor freight wrenches. I use princess auto for my home wrenching, and what ever is available at work.

[Turbowned]

Torque wrenches also come in different ranges. Some read inch-pounds, some foot-pounds, and the ranges differ. Some will be from 20-80 foot-pounds and some 60-250 (just guessing arbitrary numbers), so make sure the one you pick is in the desired range of what you plan to use it for. You may need to buy more than one. I'd spend the hundred bucks or so and get a good one.

[OrbitalEllipses]

I have a CDI 10-100ftlbs torque wrench. Can't comment on how accurate it is since I don't have a method of measuring that or another torque wrench to verify with. I've heard both schools of arguments...but while you're getting into the hobby why not use a $22 torque wrench that you can replace if it breaks?

[Sportsguy83]

I bought a Precision Instruments "Split Beam" Wrench. It is a click type torque wrench, but does not need to be unloaded everytime you use it. Pretty neat stuff.

http://www.torqwrench.com/

[j4m35ly]

Originally Posted by Tainen

After talking to the mechanics at cummins, who mostly use really high end stuff, they tell me for weekend mechanics, for torque wrenches, harbor freight is really the way to go. I was pretty surprised by that, but their reasoning was that when they send their torque wrenches out to get professionally recalibrated, they often times get worse or no better than before, whereas when compared to a new harbor freight, the harbor freight is pretty much always more accurate than a very, very expensive recalibrated wrench.

So their recommendation was to get the harbor freight torque wrench, and replace it every few years and/or until it breaks, and not to bother with recalibration. Unless of course your tools are your life.

Works for me. My 1/2" Harbor Freight torque wrench was $22, and is still fairly accurate.

I have a Harbor Freight one too. It works well. I take off wheels once every few months so it'll be senseless for me to get something expensive when a cheap one gets the job done.