Has anyone disassembled the factory shifter?

[SilentMike]

I'd like to remove the reverse lockout collar so I can model it in solidworks and make a drawing of it. Looking at it with the shift knob and boot/trim ring removed, it's not obvious to me how the collar comes off (if at all), and I'm reluctant to start prying parts off my DD.

I'm not a big fan of the look and feel of the stock plastic part. My plan is to have one of the machinists I work with turn one out of aluminum to replace it. I really like the look of the reverse lockouts on the Billet Pro Shop short shifter. I contacted them to inquire if their reverse lockout was compatible with the stock architecture, but alas, it is not. I think a clear hardcoat anodized matte silver reverse lockout would provide a nice splash of low wattage accent between my textured black Flossy shift knob and the perforated leather replacement shift boot from JPM Coachworks (once they are available).

Thanks in advance for any insights!

Mike Smith
Alpharetta, GA

[Silverdub]

Talk to billetproshop he is a genius with shifters

[Turbowned]

Mike, why not just buy the whole Billet Pro Shop shifter? Don't want the shorter length/throw? I completely 100% agree with you on the matte aluminum; it will look best!

[Brett]

Originally Posted by Turbowned

Mike, why not just buy the whole Billet Pro Shop shifter? Don't want the shorter length/throw? I completely 100% agree with you on the matte aluminum; it will look best!

I have a feeling this is half about the result, and half about making his own

[SilentMike]

Originally Posted by Brett

I have a feeling this is half about the result, and half about making his own

Indeed. The Billet Pro Shop piece looks first rate. I'm actually pretty happy with the shift throw/feel of the stock shifter. The plastic reverse lockout looks, feels, and sounds low rent, just like the cheap shift and brake boots. I realize these pieces were made to a price, but I have always enjoyed upgrading the parts of the car with which I interface.

[Supermassive]

The reverse lockout is held in place by a pin. You'll need a small punch and hammer, but you can feel the holes for the pin on the upper flare of the lockout. Im not 100% sure if its a roll pin but its highly likely so you may need to buy a new pin, or to make it easier to remove your machined lockout by making it use a recessed allen bolt...

[SilentMike]

Originally Posted by Supermassive

The reverse lockout is held in place by a pin. You'll need a small punch and hammer, but you can feel the holes for the pin on the upper flare of the lockout. Im not 100% sure if its a roll pin but its highly likely so you may need to buy a new pin, or to make it easier to remove your machined lockout by making it use a recessed allen bolt...

Thanks Supermassive. I suspected that was the purpose of that pair of holes in the reverse lockout.