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Old 10-29-2025, 07:08 PM   #24809
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Removed rear glass tint. Got 95% of the glue removed but I will need to go over it again. At 6' 4" the back seat is kinda tight. Old tint was starting to bubble and I never liked it anyway.
what procedure did you use?

i need to do my car, but last vehicle i removed tint from ended up getting new glass after i ducked up the defrost.
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Old 10-30-2025, 11:32 AM   #24810
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I removed all the tint from my previous car, a RSX Type S. Including the rear hatch which is huge, but I was very adamant that I was keeping my rear defrost.

I figured it out too late in the process that a garment steamer works wonders. Before that it was a seriously slow process. I would sit in my hatch and work on it in during breaks and lunches when I worked at a call center.

I'm going to have to go thru the same process with my BRZ. The top most layer of the tint is starting to delaminate and will need to be replaced. Not looking forward to it with such a small cabin and no hatchback.
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Old 10-30-2025, 12:38 PM   #24811
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Converted to winter mode via set of "used" 200km old GR86 OEM suspension.


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Old 10-30-2025, 12:49 PM   #24812
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I used a blow dryer. You heat an area for a few seconds and once started you can tell as you gently pull that it wants to come off. I started in the center top area. I went slow and it still only took a few minutes to get it all off. The worse part was between the rear brake light and the glass since it was tight there. I think the glue had starting to go since I had some bubbles in the tint.
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Old 11-01-2025, 06:41 PM   #24813
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Nothing anyone here has not seen or done before. My tires needed rotated and Discount Tire refused to do it because they are just over 6 years old, out of warranty. Of course they wanted to sell me new ones. They still have some life left in them, no cracks. I rotated them myself, front to back, back to front.

While I had the car jacked up on its side I checked out the brake pads and rotors. My car is 13 years old and this is only the second time I have checked them. Yeah, I know, lazy, but the brakes are working fine. Car has ~42K miles on it.
Checked the usable pad thickness, measured 8mm back, 9mm front, and the rotors look ok.
The brake pad support plates, the repair manual's name, were in bad shape. Coated with a heavy black something. I used mineral spirits, isopropanol, and an old tooth brush and a small wire brush to clean them and the brake pads.
Greased the brake pad support plates and the brake cylinder/caliper pins with Permatex Silicone Brake Parts Lubricant. FYI: the caliper pin with the ribbed rubber sleeve on it goes in the bottom hole of the caliper. Brake components removal and installation procedures start on page 383 of the repair manual.

Yeah I know the manual says to change the brake fluid at 30K miles but I didn't. It looked fine, good color, clear, and my cheapo conductivity brake fluid tester showed it had only <0.1% water. Yes, I know they can be inaccurate. I checked mine against a Karl Fisher titrator in the lab and they matched. I have found that they are ok if you use a new alkaline battery.

I put everything back together and the brakes work fine.

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Last edited by RickyBobby; 11-03-2025 at 11:09 AM.
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Old 11-01-2025, 06:56 PM   #24814
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Swapped pads and rotors to "winter" setup, and noticed front bearing was noisy. Swapped out both front hubs while I had everything apart.

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Old Yesterday, 11:57 AM   #24815
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Just got my car back the other day from having it at the dealership for over two and a half weeks. It was overheating on the way to work. I was afraid that it was the head gasket,but it ended up being that the hose from the radiator to the engine had a crack in it,which drained pretty much all of the coolant.



While at the dealership,I finally got the valve springs recall done,along with some other maintenance issues. All gaskets were replaced,along with drive belt and spark plugs. They did quite bit of work,but they tried to charge me for a cabin air filter,which I declined,of course,and someone swiped my snow brush out of my car. Went back yesterday and they gave me a new brush for free.


In all,just over $1700. My car will hit 120k miles probably this week. I've had it since 19k miles,in 2015,so for it to finally start having any real issues is a testament to how well Subaru(mine is a FR-S,but you know) vehicles are made.
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Old Yesterday, 04:39 PM   #24816
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Originally Posted by Th3rdSun View Post
Just got my car back the other day from having it at the dealership for over two and a half weeks. It was overheating on the way to work. I was afraid that it was the head gasket,but it ended up being that the hose from the radiator to the engine had a crack in it,which drained pretty much all of the coolant.



While at the dealership,I finally got the valve springs recall done,along with some other maintenance issues. All gaskets were replaced,along with drive belt and spark plugs. They did quite bit of work,but they tried to charge me for a cabin air filter,which I declined,of course,and someone swiped my snow brush out of my car. Went back yesterday and they gave me a new brush for free.


In all,just over $1700. My car will hit 120k miles probably this week. I've had it since 19k miles,in 2015,so for it to finally start having any real issues is a testament to how well Subaru(mine is a FR-S,but you know) vehicles are made.
I'll be praying for you...
Feels good to get maintenance stuff sorted out though. I don't think enough people appreciate mundane maintenance, it's like mods but for longevity and peace of mind.
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Old Today, 12:21 PM   #24817
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I'll be praying for you...
Right!

120,000 miles and 12 years old and then you decide to get the valve spring recall done? Wowzers! Very surprised to hear that. Just curious as to your reasoning. Genuinely asking.
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