Recently acquired a set of Vland headlights for my FR-S at a substantial discount that I couldn't pass up. Got the units in my hands and found the headlights to be plug and play for 8-pin BRZ, with no 8-pin to 6-pin adapters to be found in the box. Looked around online and found that many of the Vland headlights being sold by their myriad of resellers no longer come with the "low spec" 6-pin harness. So, with a bit of digging and some trial and error, I successfully repined the Vland's to the stock FR-S 6-pin connector, and only had to tap 1 wire on each side for to activate the turn signals (apparently with the 8-pin to 6-pin adapter you're still required to tap 3 wire's to activate the turn signals and boomerang.) Here's what you'll need to do to re-pin as I have:
Note: This guide is for standard halogen equipped FR-S models. I believe Monogram/RS/10 series models have different connectors/pin arrangement.
Note 2: Idea for this write up came after installing, as such I have no pictures of the re-pining process at this time.
1. Remove all pins from both your 6-pin connector and the 8-pin Vland connector.
2. Insert Vland wires in the 6-pin connector in this order:
Key: [Pin #: | Vland wire color | (OEM pin assignment)]
Pin 1: Red (High beam + )
Pin 2: Black (Low Beam Ground)
Pin 3: Green (Low Beam +)
Pin 4: Black (High Beam Ground)
Pin 5: Black (Parking Light Ground)
Pin 6: White (Parking Light +)
3. You will be left with the single YELLOW wire remaining. You will need to add an extension to this wire to use to tap the RED turn signal power wire attached to the stock FR-S turn signal connector to enable the Vland turn signals. The quick way will be to remove the remaining pin on the YELLOW wire, connect it to a 20ga extension wire with a butt connector, and then use a t-tap to connect this wire to the RED turn signal power wire that runs to the lower bumper mounted FR-S turn signals. Users familiar with wiring may want to solder these connections instead.
4. You will now have 3 wires coming out of a small rectangular box towards the middle/bottom of the headlight. These wires are for the in car height adjustment motor which the halogen equipped FR-S does NOT have. Tape them up/ignore them. Leave the box intact as you will still need access to it to manually adjust your lights (see below.)
5. Your Vlands should now be fully functional, with the boomerang activating when either parking light or headlights are engaged.
-- Notes, Recommendations, Observations --
Headlight Aim:
LOTS of comments online similar to this direct quote: "the boomerang looks sick but I can't see $h!t at night" - This is 100% user error. From what I have been able to gather, the majority of people saying this do not realize that they need to adjust the lights with the 2 aim adjusters, as Vland has the projectors aimed at the ground out of the box. There are 2 adjusters on the back of the headlights, at or close to where aim adjusters are normally placed on aftermarket headlights: 1 gold/brass colored metal adjuster in the outer corner nearest the projector, 1 white plastic adjuster on the rectangular headlight motor box. Both are easily adjusted with an 8mm socket. The white adjuster lowers and raises your headlight beam, while the gold/brass adjuster moves the beam side to side diagonally towards the upper right or lower left. I recommend using a Gearwrench for adjusting the easy to reach white adjuster, and a socket wrench with a long flexible extension(s) to adjust the hard to reach gold/brass adjuster once the headlights are installed on the car. Adjustments happen in very small increments, so expect to have to crank the Gearwrench for quite awhile to get the beam to a proper height - I counted around 100 1/4 to 1/2 turn cranks to get it to the correct level on first use. If you need to adjust side to side, do this first before raising/lowering via the white adjuster as it will raise/lower the beam slightly while adjusting sideways.
Bulbs/Output:
Again, like most aftermarket lights of this type, the manufacturer provides a plug for a standard H7 halogen bulb. However, it seems the projectors they use in the Vlands are some variant of the G5-R projectors. These are extremely capable clear lens HID projectors with fantastic distance and width when aimed correctly and paired with the proper bulbs. For best results, I highly recommend OSRAM Cool Blue Intense D2S bulbs be installed in these headlights. While not cheap, these OEM quality bulbs are some of the best available and typically outperform lower cost aftermarket alternatives. I previously ran these bulbs in my last pair of retrofitted headlights (in branded Q5-r projectors,) and now run a new set of OSRAMs in these Vlands. The output is a very nice upgrade in performance from my already well performing previous build.
The Vlands accommodate D2S bulbs perfectly via the included D2S bulb holders, (tip: the return wire should be pointed down when inserted and the two nubs on the bulb base should be horizontal when installed) but you will need either D2S compatible ballasts or 2 AMP to D2S ballast adapters along with extended headlight dust cover caps to accommodate the D2S connections. These may be purchased via most sellers of headlight retrofits/parts.
Update: Output shots here:
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...7&postcount=10
Turn Signal Speed:
If you watch videos of these headlights installed, you'll noticed the turn signals blink sequentially, but a rate that's just a bit too fast - Despite there apparently being a resistor wired inside the headlights to prevent hyper blink. The fix for this is to use a flasher relay (Diode Dynamics SmartTap, Tap Turn, etc.) that you would normally install to prevent hyper blink with LED turn signal bulbs. This allows you to retain the Vland sequential turn signal, but slows it down just enough to make it flow considerably better when active.
Hopefully this helps save some time for anyone needing this information. Enjoy.