Quote:
Originally Posted by Clash0901
Rear camber is around -1 degree on both sides. I'm sure when it squats it might hit like -2 roughly. Maybe, worst case scenario -3 on a squat but since the car barely grips, i don't think it ever pushes the rear end that low because i would hear it rubbing.
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right now with your suspension and tire its probably not squatting much to change camber all that much, but once you get the tire and dial in the suspension that will change a lot.
your goal should be zero effective camber and toe in rear, with zero effective toe and maybe -.5 effective camber front with as much caster out front as will allow before wheel shaking/shimming for high speed stability. effective meaning while moving/squatting under load not static on an alignment rack.
This varies based on suspension setup and specific vehicle/setup etc..
but since this is also a street car a good at least starting alignment to shoot for on static rack would be
front -1 camber, 0 to 1/32 toe in per side, 5-7 degree caster (depends if/how much you can adjust, if it shakes/shimmys at speed you have too much caster)
Rear 0 camber 1/32 toe in per side
for a drag setup id probably run positive toe front and positive camber rear, but small compromises for street.
another method would be to jack up the front 2" and compress the rear 1" on the rack and shoot for 0 camber and toe all around. but again this gets more into drag car vs street car. as this will most likely mean you will be running positive camber rear and toe out front while static but be at 0 all around under load.
get the tire and dial in the suspension setup, then get the alignment, then finish tweaking the suspension settings.
If your planning on adding weight to the rear which I would recommend do that before getting vehicle weight to decide spring rate and before getting alignment.
Decide on what compromises you are willing to make and live with to get as close to your goal as possible.