Yup, I'm *sure* that most shops will miss this, but not Wile Motorsports. Proprietor was into motorsports before he started the biz, and they pretty much only work on race cars. *Still* I lifted the front of the car when I got it home and loosened the bolts to double-check for myself, and indeed they had them tightened at max negative camber adjustability with the slots/holes.
When I went to pick up the car I observed proprietor manually double-checking the alignment measurements from the machine, same camber numbers within a tenth or two.
Still I will have Patriot Subaru look at camber again to triple-check and also to see if they have any ideers. Might ask if they can shift the front subframe to the left. And maybe the rear subframe to the right!
If i can't get to *at least* -3 at the front left, will resort to SPC camber bolts and maybe source a couple of grade 12.9 M12 bolts/nuts for the uppers, torqued to 110 lb-ft.
By my calcs, and assuming the measurements in post #1 are correct, then if the front right is adjusted to max negative camber up top, it'd be at around -2.1FL/-4.4FR. That's a built-in difference of 2.3 degrees. Not sure what the factory spec is but it might be impossible to get both fronts into spec camber range with the stock suspension. LAME!
All that said, there *does* seem to be inherently limited camber adjustment with the RCE SS-2 upper mount arrangement. If I was able to shift the subframe, it looks like the most front camber I could get at both sides would be (-2.1 - 4.4)/2 = -3.25 with subframe perfectly centered relative to strut mounts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering
I've never ever seen a difference left to right that much from the factory BUT I do get phone calls not infrequently from people and shops that forget to push the hubs in when tightening the 2 bolts for the lower mount to get as much camber as possible down there. Just sayin! We're adding a lot more detail in the instructions and making a video of this soon (Monday).
- Andrew
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