[Yoshoobaroo]

Track mode on 2013-2016 DIY: We’re swapping the VSC module with a 2017-2020 unit. This gives us track mode and hill assist. WHY ARE WE DOING THIS? We’re nuts, that’s why. Track mode is a less aggressive version of sport mode on 2013-2016 cars, normal mode becomes a bit less intrusive as well. See Toyota’s info blurb about track mode in the 2017 cars:





Disclaimer: perform this mod at your own and your car's risk, yadayada nobody on FT86club is responsible for any repercussions due to this mod being performed or attempted.

Original thread where @solidsnake11 did most of the legwork: LINK



Tools and parts needed:

-2017-2018 VSC module (duh)
-1 zip tie
-Flathead screwdriver (small)
-Connector pin release tool:

Originally Posted by MJones_RB

Amazon

(Sewing needle set or small picks/pins works too)

-10mm hex socket
-External Torx sockets (4mm hex works too)
-Small ratchet driver with a few short extensions
-Small cutting tool

Helpful but not mandatory:
-Needle nose pliers

Step 1: Remove VSC module connector

Disconnect battery negative terminal. (10mm hex)

Undo the connector from the VSC module, there is a lever lock holding it on.



Step 2: Repin the VSC module connector on 2013-2014 cars

2015-2016 cars, skip to step 3. Do not repin the connector! 15/16 cars are plug and play with the 17 module.

2013-2014 cars, let’s repin the connector.



Looking at the pins, there is a pink lock holding all the pins in. To unlock it slide all 4 pink tabs to the side where the wiring comes out of the back of the connector.



The backshell comes off by prying 4 tabs on the backshell itself. You can’t push the catch down, you have to pry the back shell up (blue highlighted section like my cartoon screwdriver shows below):




Remove the black zip tie that wraps around the wire bundle.

Now we’re ready to disengage and pull pins 27 (pink) and 32 (white). Each pin has a release catch formed into the pin itself. There is a hole right next to the pin where the release is accessible:




The release tab is the same for all the pins in that region of the connector, but pins 14-36 don’t have the hole next to them. Instead it’s a U-shaped channel that serves the same purpose (see below). Release the pin by pushing a pin release tool (sewing needle or similar thin tool works as well) in the release hole as far as it’ll reasonably go. If using a needle use the blunt end, and try to find one that’s almost as thick as the height of the slot. Then pull on the wire on the backside. It’s tricky, but you shouldn’t need much force.
Image below shows where the release is for pin 32:



Once those 2 pins are out, the hard part is done!

Remove the rubber plugs out of the back of the 8 and 9 locations. You can push them out through the front with a thin tool, or pull them out from the back with tiny pliers or a sharp angled pick.(no pins present in these slots, just the rubber plug)

Push the pins you pulled into the following locations:
-Pink wire (sport button) from 27 to 9
-White wire (FL wheel speed sensor) from 32 to 8.
You should feel a faint click, give the wire a very gentle tug to make sure it's seated all the way. Note, location 9 is marked ‘CLSE’ on most connectors.

Re-engage the pink lock, and put the backshell back on. Install a new zip tie where we removed it earlier.

Don't plug the connector into the VSC module yet since we're swapping that next.

Step 3: Swap VSC Module

Simply unbolt the VSC module from the aluminum ABS pump housing. Undo the 4 external torx bolts (4mm hex works, just be careful). You’ll need a small ratchet and maybe a short extension for the lower ones.



Pull the module off, slide the new one on, snug the bolts back up.

Note: the picture below is to show the inside of both parts. You do not need to remove the aluminum housing from the car!


Connect harness back to VSC Module.

Reconnect battery.

Go for a drive. If you forgot to unplug the battery the ABS light will be on for ~half a mile.

Sport button now has to be held for a second or two where it used to be instant.


Reference info:
ALL ZENKI YEARS CONFIRMED WORKING

2013 Repin required
2014 Repin required
2015 Plug and play
2016 Plug and play

ABS pump assemblies/calibrations confirmed to have 2017 programming:
27536CA030
27536CA040
27536CA050
27536CA060
27536CA070


***Get a module from a car with the same transmission as yours*** MT modules only work in MT cars and AT modules only work in AT cars. Most eBay listings will tell you the specs of the donor vehicle.
Thank you @crabarts231 for confirming this!

***CHECK THE DATES ON THE NEW VSC MODULE ITSELF (black part). MAKE SURE THE YEAR MATCHES THE ABS PUMP YEAR*** Month and day don’t need to match. VSC module has 2 dates on it. The first ABS pump I bought had a 14-04-22 VSC module, presumably for a 2015. It worked fine with the repin but didn’t have the newer programming of course. That’s why everyone should make sure the year on the aluminum housing and the VSC module are the same. If my 2017 ABS pump had a 2015 module on it, maybe junkyards are mixing and matching parts.
See below:



2018 wiring diagram for reference

Trippinbillies track mode assessment, one of the more detailed ones on this forum:

Originally Posted by trippinbillies40

So I took my '17 BRZ to High Plains here in Denver a couple nights ago. I had previously owned a '13 FR-S for just over 3 years, and had done probably 20 track days with that car anywhere from completely stock to STX autocross trim. In the old car, I also had TC all the way off because sport mode was far too intrusive. Fast forward a few years, I had gotten rid of that car, got engaged, and my lovely fiance wanted another twin, so we got the new one. She's a pretty darn good autocrosser but has yet to do a track day, and she's a little nervous about pushing the car hard on track and writing it off.

Sooooo, I decided to see what "Track Mode" is like on the new cars. Subaru touted this as being a more "relaxed and unobtrusive" version of the prior cars' Sport Mode. I have to say, I'm incredibly impressed with the level of interaction it provides.

If I had to sum it up in one sentence, I would say "If it's saving you, you weren't going to be fast anyways." It allows a very surprising amount of slip angle. I started out my final session of the day trying to put in a few good laps and not slide the car too much because I was curious to what the car was capable of in stock trim. After that, the tires were a little hot and greasy, so I started getting a little more sideways to see where the limit was. At many points, I had half a turn of lock in (wheel upside down) just standing on the gas sliding it around. So I tried to give it more, wondering where the limit was. It honestly took almost a full turn of lock before the TC grabbed and said that's enough.

In summary, I think this is the perfect mode for the budding track day enthusiast who wants to become a better driver but doesn't trust himself to not loop the car into a wall. It will stay out of your way if you're driving correctly, and will only interfere when you've gone a bit too far. If it grabs, it wasn't going to be your fastest laps anyways. That having been said, you can't use this for all-out drifting, and seasoned drivers will still probably prefer TC all the way off because they don't want to worry about losing their man card.

Video for reference, all in track mode.

Thanks @solidsnake11 @makinen @solidONE @anticubus @norcalpb @HSC @reh8388 @Trap63 and M60power