Quote:
Originally Posted by soundman98
you'll need to run new wire directly off the head unit to the crossover, and then to the speakers. unless you're planning on running the deck in 3-way active mode, then the 'front' speaker outputs are for the tweeters, and the 'rear' speaker outputs are for the woofers. you don't make this part clear from your post.
the factory wiring works like this (italix only to visually separate the explanation of the factory install):
from the factory head unit, the front speakers are split between the amplifier input for the door subwoofers and the dash tweeters. the tweeters have a multi-wire connection, so the tweeter itself 'finishes' the connection to make the dash midrange work. the dash mids will not work without the tweeter connection.
from the split at the headunit to the amplifier, the amplifier takes the fullrange speaker input, then filters the signal for only the low frequencies and amplifies it, which then goes into the door subwoofers.
and they are subwoofers, meaning that they only reproduce the lowest frequencies, making them absolutely unusable without a midrange like what the factory installed.
so to make the new setup you have work, the only option is to run new wire and abandon everything but the factory power connections in the dash. if your intent is to do part now, and part later, i would recommend running extra speaker wire in a loop from the radio to the intended amp location and then to the speakers(so you just need to cut it at the amp location), and while you have the car apart to do so, run your rca wires as well as the remote turn on, even potentially the power wires(get Oxygen Free Copper/OFC, and not Copper Coated Aluminum/CCA wire, i've been very happy with knuconceptz). this would make the amp install later go a little smoother.
though personally, if the intention from the get-go is to install the amp, i will put all the new fancy gear on a shelf and wait until i have all of it do do the install (i was very happy i did this in my last install, as my intended mounting location for the amp and sub did not work out like i had been planning. it required some serious alterations to my game plan, and would have been a much larger ordeal, had i already completed some of the work based on my original plans).
i like playing with all this stuff, but i don't like having to pull the same things apart twice to accomplish my original goal. and a speaker/amp install is going to require re-doing at least half of what either one requires. unfortunately, this car isn't like other cars where each speaker gets a fullrange signal straight from the radio, and makes it easy to replace speakers with aftermarket variations.
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Thank you so much for all your advice soundman98! You just convinced me to push through and buy the next stage and get it done once (minus the JL stealthbox sub. i will have to buy that later and then i should be done.)
How do you recommend I hook this up? Should I ditch the passive crossovers and hook my front stage in network mode and utilize the amp as an active crossover?
Should I put a capacitor/bass blocker on the tweeter to protect it from getting blown? If so what size?
In the manual Alpine recommends the diagram below for the setup I am trying to do. Is this correct wiring that will allow me just to plug in my designated subwoofer speaker cables and be good to go?
Also, where do you recommend I mount the amp? Should I commission a audio shop to build my a small rack for the PDX-V9 and mount it where the factory amp was. I saw a Youtube video and it looked clean. I do not do any woodworking though.
Thanks for your help in advance bro!
