View Single Post
Old 06-12-2022, 10:42 AM   #41
soundman98
ProCrastinationConsultant
 
soundman98's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Drives: '14 Ranger, '18 Tacoma 4Dr LB
Location: chicago-ish
Posts: 11,330
Thanks: 35,240
Thanked 13,673 Times in 6,781 Posts
Mentioned: 98 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhatFreshPrince View Post
You must have read my mind because the two amps that I picked were because they only needed a 15 amp fuse which the stock amp has already. Yes, I was trying to avoid running independent power to the new amp. Well, if I do run a new power line, this will open up my options to a lot more amp choices.
yea, while it might technically work, i personally don't trust the oem wiring--it was designed around a lower power amp, and a lower power output level as well. could it work? sure. but is it worth it to install a $250+ amp over the course of roughly 2-4 hours, only to have to tear into everything at a later date because the factory wiring turns out to be too thin to offer the benefits of the amp you already paid for?

if you're going to amplify the speakers, the oem speaker wire is only something like 18-20gauge wire. i personally go a little overkill running 12-13ga, but i wouldn't push 50wrms into anything less than 16 gauge pure copper wire from a known-good supplier like crutchfield or knukonceptz. so once you're replacing the speaker wire to take full advantage of the amp, it's not even a full hop-skip-and-jump more to run a dedicated power line, as most of the panels that need pulled for the speaker wire need pulled for the amp cabling.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PhatFreshPrince View Post
I also picked the two amps because, if I understand the car's wiring correctly, I need an amp that will take "speaker-level inputs". Am I correct here? Or is there preamp signal lines at the stock amp connector?
there's some newer conflicting info on that.
on the .org /threads/sub-amp-install.1516/page-2#post-44632
remove donut has tested/measured the oem signal and says it's really just a low level signal. so any amp should work just fine. most quality amps are going to have a high level input option anyways.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PhatFreshPrince View Post
Another question at your level of knowledge, is there anything options that I will lose by replacing an amp for the door speakers? For example, I read something about some stock amps handling voice commands or hands-free phone calls. And I guess I will lose the music tuning options on the head unit?
the oem amp is a 'dumb' amp, it doesn't handle any specialty features, same as any aftermarket amp.
__________________
"The time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time"
soundman98 is offline   Reply With Quote