Quote:
Originally Posted by RZNT4R
No.
Check at the most effective test point that provides the most information at the earliest in the diagnostic.
Is it a problem on the starter motor circuit? Is a problem on the ignition switch circuit? You must know where to look before you can look, and checking everything end to end is a big dirty waste of time.
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As much as I hate to admit it, I have to agree with @
Tcoat on this one.
If you're using an old-school test light to attempt electrical troubleshooting on modern vehicles, you are not a mechanic that I would want to bring my vehicle to.
A decent quality digital VOM is the proper tool to troubleshoot with in these (and all) modern cars.
Throw that old test light away. Then check the battery voltage at each post first, then from the positive post to one of the +12V fuses in the fuse block under the hood that is always energized, then crank the starter and measure that voltage. This will let you know if you have any resistance between the post and the fuses. Any measured voltage greater than 0.1 volts and you have too much resistance (probably caused by corrosion or loose terminals) and you should address that.
Do the same thing for the negative post and to the engine block while cranking. Any measured voltage greater than 0.1 volts indicates resistance between the negative post and to the block. Address that if needed.
Once you've established that your positive and negative cables are clean and secure, and that your battery is not weak, then you can move on to diagnosing individual circuits.