Quote:
Originally Posted by LimitedSlip
Okay guys, I'm not understanding this. Maybe we are nit-picking over technicalities, but there is a 12 volt DC supply circuit fused at 15 amps available at the factory amplifier location along with ground and speaker level input and output wiring. No, you should not try to run both the factory amp and an additional amp on that 15 amp circuit. No, you can't run a great honking sub-woofer amp on that 15 amp circuit. But, the Alpine KTP-445U (and similar units from other vendors) is rated at 45 watts x 4 channels or can be bridged for 90 watts x 2 channels all while requiring no more than a 15 amp 12 volt supply circuit. I'm guessing the factory amp produces something around 30 watts x 2. Going to 45 watts per channel on the doors really isn't an upgrade but 90 per channel would be noticeable. Or, how about getting a dual voice coil subwoofer and sending 45 x 2 to the doors and 45 x 2 to the subwoofer? The sub isn't going to be (obnoxiously) loud but it would certainly fill out the bottom end.
Would I do this myself? No, I ran 4 gauge from the battery to the sub amp in the trunk. But as long as the OP understands the limitations with this implementation I think it would work. Thoughts?
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These are bare-bones, bottom of the line, not doing much more than the factory amp solutions.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fatboydean
Thanks I think I will need the headunit and also a multi channel amp to power a set of new speakers replacing the factory speakers.
From my understanding there is a factory amp as well. I would like to use its power supply for the aftermarket amp if possible. Any recommendations?
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Considering he's trying to amplify upgraded door and dash speakers, those types of "amps" (if you can even call them that) are not doing much that the factory amp isn't already.
You're going to want a real amp to power real speakers, which is going to require real wiring.
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EDIT: Reading through this thread again, it seems the OP has no idea what he really wants. He went from wanting an amp setup that would power new door speakers from the OEM head unit, to getting a new headunit, to saying he wants to power a subwoofer with it. If we add all this up at face value, it sounds like he's replacing all the door speakers, putting in a new headunit, and adding a subwoofer. No way are you powering that off the factory wiring. Unless he tells us exactly what he's wanting to do, we can't find solutions.
Let's consider good practices in upgrading your audio system:
Headunit is preference, you can make it work with OEM or aftermarket. Most find better results with aftermarket, but in the end it doesn't matter when it comes to wiring. Just keep in mind that with an aftermarket unit, best quality is from running appropriate RCA wires from the matching level outputs on the rear of the unit along with a remote turn-on wire. So, new set of wires #1.
New door and dash speakers should be run with new wiring. Factory wiring is notoriously bad with anything beyond factory signals, so you want something that can carry a beefier signal. So right there, you already want to run new wires at least in the interior. New set of wires #2.
Adding a new amp is going to play directly into this. A good ground is essential in all equipment, so utilizing a factory ground may or may not pose problems. Best way to avoid any potential issues with that is to run a dedicated ground for the new amp. To do all this, and not consider upgrading the source of power, is useless. A dedicated power supply of appropriate gauge wiring will protect the circuit and ensure the amp gets the juice it needs. New set of wires #3.
All that, and then adding a subwoofer, is going to increase the power draw and ground requirements of the amp. Depending on the setup, maybe even a second amp and power distro blocks with a larger gauge wire from the battery to the blocks.
So yeah, run new wires for your audio system. Don't try to use stock wires.