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Old 11-02-2021, 11:06 PM   #11
soundman98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueskiesgreenlights View Post
5. My Hakone is louder than most. The original owner installed a performance muffler system which aggravates the car's noise level. The Toyota dealer says that the only way to correct this is to purchase a factory muffler system. I plan to get a second opinion. Any takers?
could always watch for a used muffler to become available. but plan to replace the bolts and donut gasket.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blueskiesgreenlights View Post
Wire colors:
Red = Battery + (always on) [PIN 1]
Black = Ground [PIN 2]

White = LF Speaker amplified out (black line means -) [PIN 1 and 5]
Grey = RF Speaker amplified out (black line means -) [ PIN 2 and 6]
Blue = remote turn on [PIN 8]
Green = Left speaker signal input from HU [PIN 3 and 9]
Purple = Right Speaker signal in from HU [PIN 4 and 10]

My objective is to learn of the color codes so that I can connect the Scosche TAO2B wires to the AC in such a way that allows me to control the speakers exactly like the current HU (factory) setup. Any ideas?
i can't remember which wiring harness brand does what, but 1 lists the wiring function and color code on the package, and one labels the function onto the wires themselves.

but all of the aftermarket harness companies all sell stuff using the same color code--which will differ from the factory wiring color code. but as long as you're using the add-on harness(and one should always use one!), all that really matters is the label/color of the aftermarket harness.

toyota especially, hasn't really changed their audio connectors since about 1985. so they're well documented, and well sorted in the aftermarket harnesses.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blueskiesgreenlights View Post
Second, I would like to route the 4 awg power wire down the center console (underneath the carpet). My current plan is to see if the carpet is lose enough to fish a coat hanger gauge wire from the trunk area (where the AC is located) to the dash underneath the carpet. Once the wire is available under the dash to secure the power wire and pull it to the AC. Has anyone had any experience doing this? If so, any tips or suggestions?
it should actually be easier to route it down and under the passenger-side plastic door sill covers. then take out the bolts and remove the back seat bottom cushion, and using the coat hanger method, fish it up and through the underside of the side-panel plastic trim, into the trunk area.


Quote:
Originally Posted by blueskiesgreenlights View Post
Third, while I was considering connecting the FSW to the AC in bridge mode I've since decided to purchase a 4 ohm sub amp for this connection. AudioControl offers the LC-1.800 for about $450. I checked out FR-S2GT86's suggestion of the Cerwin Vega B51. As I'm not really into heavy base, the AMZN price of $216 is still more than I'd like to pay at this point. As I am considerably overbudget on this project, any suggests for a more budget friendly sub amp that would work with AC?
considering that you already have the LC D-6.1200, i would recommend continuing on the path you're currently on-- using the the sub output for the sub. but some clarification is needed-- are you planning to bi-amp the sony drivers, or just run them off the front amp channel, with the passive crossovers doing the heavy lifting?

Quote:
Originally Posted by blueskiesgreenlights View Post
Finally, I have to make a decision about the rear seat speakers. My inclination is to install a premium coaxial like Polk's DB401 but they are not available. Alternatively, if it's not too difficult to remove the back seat panels, I might just run wires to these locations, bridge the sub, and see how this sounds.
those panels are a pain to remove. i would suggest coiling up the wire under the rear seat bottoms, as they'll need to be removed to pull the side panels anyways if you decide they're needed later.
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