Quote:
Originally Posted by Firesnake
Hey all, given the space considerations with the Edelbrock, I held off on an oil cooler as most of the available products either required additional fabrication or some level of compromise.
I ultimately chose to go with the Jackson Racing Dual Radiator/Oil cooler for the following net positives:
- it was a direct drop in swap with the OEM radiator
- High Efficiency CSF Core (B-tube dual laminar flow, multi-louevered fins)
- Liquid to oil provides not just cooling, but thermostasis (quickly brings temp into operating window whether by warming or cooling)
Here's a pic displaying the difference in thickness, and the space efficiency of the Dual Radiator/Oil Cooler:
Picture displaying multi-louvered fins
OEM Crash beam clearance with Edlebrock LTR, AC Condensor, and JR Radiator.
The JR Dual Radiator/Oil Cooler fits well with the edelbrock airbox. So well it doesn't appear to be an aftermarket product if you didn't know what to look for:
The lines were a bit tricky, as it looked like they wanted to kink. But after playing with the angle, we found a soft bend that facilitated the smooth flow of oil:
There's plenty of space for the fan shroud and edlebrock airbox:
Once we started the engine up, the lines filled right up without any signs of pressure changes or kinks in the lines:
The only part I didn't figure out was the JR cap. It didn't fit so I just kept the OEM cap on.
I plan on recording track temps during 86 Cup Buttonwillow on June 4th.
The install would have been too much for me alone being a newb with instructions that had zero pop-up pictures for newbs who can't install good. But with CSG Daves guidance the install was very straightforward and makes logical sense.
Big thanks to CSG Dave for the install and a CSG Mike for putting up with my Askholeness during my hunt for an oil cooling solution 
http://counterspacegarage.com/blog/p...-installation/ |
I did this as well. The first thing I noticed was major power loss delivered from the engine. I thought I messed up my MAF position and went to my tuner to have it checked out, but then discovered that the tune was fine and the IATs were through the roof. My IATs went from 115 degrees to 145 degrees. I think it's because the radiator isn't ducted the way the oem one was.
I just put some foam weather stripping around the radiator today and plan on testing it out. To see if that helps.
I think this big bad radiator is heating the air in the engine bay more than the oem one did due to its increased cooling capacity and the intake was sucking air from the engine bay around it following the path of least resistance.
The airbox was also very hot to the touch after a little bit of driving so I may end up heat shielding the whole intake right up to the pulleys.
EDIT:
Also I will be testing it out at Roebling Road Raceway June 4th and 5th so I'd like to compare results with you. I won't be able to log it, just take measurements at the conclusion of each run.
I had the line kink issue as well, we had to massage it to get them to not kink the same way you did.
We also reused the OEM cap because the Jr cap didn't fit properly.