Problems: Stereo wiring color code, Power wire installation, Budget sub amp for AudioControl D-6.1200 amp ("AC")
System Components: AC; Sony XS 162es ("162"); Basser Box ("BB") with Rockford Fosgate R2SD4-10 ("FSW").
Plan B Changes: 3.5" or 4" coaxial speakers for back seat; Power line install underneath center consol; Add sub amp instead of bridge connection to D-6.1200; Stock amp to be removed from system although I'd welcome any ideas to repurpose it as a sub amp.
Observations and Discoveries:
1. The tweeters of the Sony XS 162es fit, with minor modification, in the dash (factory) woofer
mounting bracket. I plan to provide photos to ft86club forum members when Upgrade is completed.
2. The back seat mounting bracket can, with minor modification, accommodate 4" speakers (factory 3.5").
3. Service (or Shop) Manual and Wiring Diagram Information available via subscription only - $500/year.
4. While those experienced in electronics likely know this, others should be advised that this product
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...ZMM9KXDS&psc=1 is necessary to connect speaker wires to the AC.
5. My Hakone is louder than most. The original owner installed a performance muffler system which aggravates the car's noise level. The Toyota dealer says that the only way to correct this is to purchase a factory muffler system. I plan to get a second opinion. Any takers?
Anyway, regarding the noise level, since the Upgrade involves removal of the rear wheel well panels I plan to employ some Amazon Basics Auto Sound Deadening material over the wheel wells. This area appears to me to be a significant source of the road noise.
Per FR-S2GT86's suggestion, I purchased the AudioControl D-6.1200 amp. Also, alphasaur's video on the Basser Box encouraged me to acquire a Rockford Fosgate 10" subwoofer to go in the Basser Box. Thank you for these great tips!
As I plan the installation of a 7 speaker system (4 component speakers, 2 coaxial speakers, 1 subwoofer) to replace the factory 8 speaker system the first problem I've encountered has been getting information that I previously obtained from the Service Manual. Specifically, while I've viewed enough YouTube videos to feel fairly confident about how to remove the interior door panels the best information I've gotten so far on the 2020 86 audio system is that previous models wiring system are color coded as follows:
Wire colors:
Red = Battery + (always on) [PIN 1]
Black = Ground [PIN 2]
White = LF Speaker amplified out (black line means -) [PIN 1 and 5]
Grey = RF Speaker amplified out (black line means -) [ PIN 2 and 6]
Blue = remote turn on [PIN 8]
Green = Left speaker signal input from HU [PIN 3 and 9]
Purple = Right Speaker signal in from HU [PIN 4 and 10]
My objective is to learn of the color codes so that I can connect the Scosche TAO2B wires to the AC in such a way that allows me to control the speakers exactly like the current HU (factory) setup. Any ideas?
Second, I would like to route the 4 awg power wire down the center console (underneath the carpet). My current plan is to see if the carpet is lose enough to fish a coat hanger gauge wire from the trunk area (where the AC is located) to the dash underneath the carpet. Once the wire is available under the dash to secure the power wire and pull it to the AC. Has anyone had any experience doing this? If so, any tips or suggestions?
Third, while I was considering connecting the FSW to the AC in bridge mode I've since decided to purchase a 4 ohm sub amp for this connection. AudioControl offers the LC-1.800 for about $450. I checked out FR-S2GT86's suggestion of the Cerwin Vega B51. As I'm not really into heavy base, the AMZN price of $216 is still more than I'd like to pay at this point. As I am considerably overbudget on this project, any suggests for a more budget friendly sub amp that would work with AC?
Finally, I have to make a decision about the rear seat speakers. My inclination is to install a premium coaxial like Polk's DB401 but they are not available. Alternatively, if it's not too difficult to remove the back seat panels, I might just run wires to these locations, bridge the sub, and see how this sounds.