[FRSBRZGT86FAN]

Originally Posted by RZNT4R

NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO


That junk is just shoveling the cost forwards and amplifying it.

1: To properly service, nevermind diagnose, an AC system you're going to need a machine to recover what's in the car, a vacuum pump, a refrigerant scale, a set of gauges and an oil injection gun. An AC refilled with junk in a can will never work as well one that's been properly serviced.

2: To properly leak test a system you're going to need some nitrogen at about 200 PSI and a bottle of soapy water or a high sensitivity ultrasonic mic, or if you're unlucky, some AC dye and a UV lamp if it's a really small leak (like I had to find today on a '12 civic)

3: Any workshop that tests incoming cars with a refrigerant identifier will spot the leak sealants in junk like acpro and instead of paying for just a quick leak test and a service, now you'll be paying for a condenser and a complete system flush before any diagnostic gets done. Modern condensers use extremely fine conduits that get clogged by leak sealers.

4: Refrigerant with stop leak in it is considered contaminated and has to be sequestered and destroyed.

5: Most shops with an automatic service machine will refuse to work on something that has stop leak in it because it gums up the solenoid valves.

Would you DIY your fridge? just take it to a shop, the amount of equipment and expertise needed to do this well is not negligible, and the cost of mucking it up yourself can get astronomically high.

Originally Posted by highway7

Hello all,


I have a 2013 FRS with about 150k km on the odo, and the AC has stopped working. It was working fine last year during the summer, blew ice cold AC instantly the button is pressed, and now it blows ambient temp.



So far I've checked all fuses, and swapped the horn and AC relays to no effect.



When I press the AC button, the AC compressor does start to spin and both front fans turn on as well. However, there is no cold air regardless of how long I wait nor how fast I'm driving. I've checked all lines and there doesn't appear to be any damage. The exposed part of the condenser in the grille is a little beat up from road debris and bugs, but nothing major.


Any tips?

Please listen to @RZNT4R, a nitrogen purge and leak test is a must to remove contaminants and non-condensables out of the system properly. Then when they add new refrigerant to properly extend the life of the compressor they should add a compressor refrigerant oil as some of it will be removed by a vacuum pumping process.


6 years and 93000 miles is about the time when certain things start to gain leaks and need to be repaired so do it right. If it hasn't been done before using a condenser cleaner like nubrite and replacing the cabin air filter would help a bit when this is properly fixed as well. You wouldn't repair a HVAC system at your house without a professional so don't start here even though it's a smaller scale.