[Wangspeed]

Originally Posted by grippgoat

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...IjLTDBVcXYz9NQ

That was the setup on my 2023 BRZ when I bought it.

Previous owner was towing to the track, and the front camber is that aggressive because it was (and possibly still is?) heavily wearing the outside of the front tire on track.

There's a mod list at the start of that thread, but the highlights w.r.t. setup/alignment are: MCS 2-way non-remote 450f/550r, full droop is about 14.5" front, and ride height is about 12.9". Cusco rear upper control arms and SPL rear toe links. Perrin swaybars (22mm front, 19mm rear I think?) with adjustable endlinks. Camber plates are about half way to full negative from center (and more asymmetrical than I'd like), and I think it's got the stock 14mm bolts top and bottom at the knuckle.

I'm going to be driving to/from the track, and doing some street hooning.
I don't love the way it drives. It grips for days in the corners, but it doesn't want to go straight. It's extremely darty, and there is basically no self-centering in the steering. Low speed traction (like pulling out of driveways / turning from stop signs) is abysmal, although I think that might be tires + weather more than setup. The tracks I plan to hit are a 1.5 and 3hr drive, and frankly I wouldn't feel safe driving this setup on a highway, especially when tired after a long day. I also suspect it'd be really bad in the rain.

I'm looking for setup advice to dial it back a bit, but still work well on track. Some specific things I'm wondering:
- I've mostly driven on the stock wheels... Could the extreme camber + high offset stock wheels be moving the contact patch inboard of the steering axis, so that kingpin angle is actually causing a de-centering force?
- Am I low enough to be getting into camber loss and bad roll center behavior, and could that be why the car needs so much camber?
- Can I actually go much higher without running out of droop travel?
- How much caster is too much on these cars? I can go from 6* to 7* by going to a different set of holes on the Karcepts camber plates. Is the old Impreza trick of swapping the plates to the opposite side of the car and rotating them a thing on this platform?
- Would a couple more degrees of caster actually get me enough extra mid-corner camber to let me give up some static?

I have many more questions, but I think that's enough for now. 😅

-Mike

There's a lot here, and I'm short on time. I had some complaints about my Karcepts MCS 2WNR setup as well. 400F/500R springs. I couldn't get the car confidently settled in steady state cornering at less than track throttle. It was too easy for the rear to come around, especially over a hump or elevation change. Sharp bumps were handled better. It was setup by the previous owner to be aggressive on turn in, and rotate aggressively for autox. After about 6 months, I had a long convo with Brian at Karcepts, and we decided for me to step down to 400F/400R, which is what the previous owner originally had.


I also had the car aligned and corner balanced at the same time. The centering isn't great still, but it's good enough. The rear of the car feels better damped with 400/400 and settings that are sane for the street, and I don't notice too much of a decrease in rotation ability. Oh, I also set the ride heights to 13.25" front (center to fender) and 13.75" rear (center to fender). Front camber is -4.0, rear -2.4, toe zero. No change to caster, even though I have caster adjustable hats.