Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryephile
You're spot on for the average Joe. For the discerning rear-drive track rat [rarely applicable], a clutch-pack diff like OS Giken is usually an improvement over a Torsen in measurable lap times [per a Grassroots Motorsports test from a year or so ago]. A clutch-pack diff that's inconsistent or failing is one worth throwing in the bin, I'm sure we can agree easily on that. Next HPDE I'm at with "the 'vette pack" and I'll ask what kind of diffs they're using just for fun.
A Torsen is great for most situations and most people. Also, like arghx7 said, depending on the stability control programming, the Torsen + VSC might use individual wheel braking to effectively simulate a clutch-pack when traction is variable [i.e. one wheel on ice in winter], when the driver is inducing a drift [fun!], and use the Torsen mechanical torque vectoring when applicable [exiting a corner]. The best of both worlds.
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Agreed. You can rebuild a clutch pack diff, which you have the luxury to when you've got a race car. Plus they don't completely free wheel when you're out of the throttle.
The issue with the C6s is that the stock clutch packs do not like much more power than stock. If you're road racing a heads/cam Z06 (or a blown LS3 with meth, because you're crazy), you're looking at 530-550whp. At those power levels, save yourself the headache and go with a Quaife (Katech's offering on all of their builds), a TrueTrac (ECS's offering, after having QC issues with Quaifes), or a ZR1 diff (much beefier clutch packs), which is quite a lot more money.