[Norkoastal]

Originally Posted by wheelhaus

The clunk is entirely normal. Most cars have softer tranny mounts that mask the clunk. This clunk is caused by the synchros forcing the input shaft to a sudden stop or sudden rpm. It's more noticeable wen stopped because you're not moving. You can sometimes feel it bump the car forward a hair because the input shaft's inertia is transferred into the gears. Norkoastal's "solution" simply allows some extra time for the input shaft to slow to a stop before engaging first. The gears are always and forever locked to rotate with the rear wheels (the clutch only affects the engine side). So when you disengage the clutch and roll to a stop, the input shaft is still spinning a bit. If you engage first sooner, you feel it clunk to a sudden stop; waiting a few seconds and it slows to a stop on its own. Either way, nothing is wrong.

[norkoastal] While I agree with your comments, I find them not accurate in scenarios where people are stuck at lights for 30 seconds to a minute.. Nothing is spinning in the drivetrain at those times.. I've been at a light for a minute and get the clunk.. Pressing the clutch for 4-5 seconds (basically timing the light) will usually keep you clunk/jerk free and offer a smooth glide into 1st gear from a stop..

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Selecting a gear has nothing to do with the flywheel, or engine speed once the clutch is disengaged. The synchros and the tranny oil are the only two things affecting shift quality between gears (unless something else is wrong). Slowing the shift movement into 2nd allows the synchros more time to match the internal speed of the input shaft. The slight "crunch" that is felt in 1st and 2nd is somewhat normal, you're feeling the synchros engage. 1st and 2nd use "triple cone" synchros that have more parts, and are designed to better hadle shifting at high rpm. at lower rpm, its more noticeable. The shifter in this car is a direct connection, not a vague cable actuated shifter to a transverse mounted tranny like many new owners are used to, which can mask things. Also, the tranny will shift smoother once it's up to temp, which could easily take 15-30 minutes depending on driving style and ambient temps.

[norkoastal] good comments.. My advice is to slow down the 1-2 shift waiting for the flyywheel to catch up, then slowly notch the gear into 2.. Using this process has given me the most consistent and notchy/jerk free experience. Shifting too fast introduces "Bite" and syncho catching.
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Agreed here, if you're getting a sudden jerk when trying to accelerate from a dead stop, don't release the clutch so suddenly, or just rev to a higher rpm and let it slip just a bit. Shifting at 3k is fine for putting through traffic, but it's far too limp if you're trying to merge onto the freeway. If you're accelerating hard through the gears, let the engine rev as high as you want and shift quickly, in this case a surge forward is normal due to engine rpm (and the flywheel inertia as Norkoastal mentioned above). It's perfectly fine to let it slip some in 1st if you're trying to get moving as quick as possible, but you don't want to be excessive to the point you can smell it. Hard launches require some clutch slip. Normal traffic requires minimal clutch slip from a stop, and none when rowing between gears.

Great info Haus!!