okay here are some recent updates so that people who run something similar dont run into surprises, might as well use my experience to help.
First of all, YOU WILL RUB at first. its the plastic part of the rear bumper, its not a big deal and will rub itself out of you can dremel it. (the corner to the bumper inside the fender)
Second i had an issue with my passenger fender, it rubbed on the part closest to the sidemarkers. if you feel the fender there, it isn't rolled anymore and flares out, you want to roll that part in to avoid any issues in the future or else you risk chipping the paint or gashing the tire....i luckily caught it early.
Third, and probaby most important. once we let the KW's settle we had to take camber out. it settle to around -3.5' in the rear. i did not want to run that much at all, nor do i need that much for clearance issues. we maxed out the camber arms (cusco) which net me a minimum or -2 degrees. once we set the camber to -2 the stock toe arms were simply not enough to fix the toe issue thus i had to order whitline adjustable toe arms.
I WILL UPDATE WITH MY FINAL ALIGNMENT SPECS...for now i'm waiting for a few things to be done/come in for the car until i get to drive it and get it back on the alignment rack...
I WILL UPDATE THE FIRST POST AS I KEEP DIALING THIS WHEEL SETUP IN.
for some people wondering...yes i could have went much smaller with wheels/tires. yes this is technically overkill however i want my car to drive good AND look good therefor i think this is the best of both worlds FOR ME. decide what you want out of your car and then see what fits that.
and if anyone is in the tristate area...and wants to see this or need work/track prep/parts/ wants to bullshit i'll expect to see you at @
AZP Installs