Whats up everyone.
[2013-01-26]
Well I finally took the leap and traded in my Graphite Gray 2010 Ralliart Sportback and picked up an Asphalt 2013 FRS. I got a good deal from Nally Toyota Roswell (Georgia, Russell Autrey was my sales rep, great guy to work with) due to a little mishap they had... The car i originally signed the contract on got scrapped up while waiting outside the detail shop.... Somehow they managed to find me another manual asphalt within 50 miles and got it over the dealer the same day... I ended up paying just under 25,500 including the dealer fee(excluding tax and tag) for the following options:
- BeSpoke*
- muddgards
- Ga Legal tint
- trunk Matt
- floor matts
- rear spoiler
* I did not want the bespoke option and it was not on the first one the replacement had it and i agreed to pay them 200 for the option rather then 845.
The sticker was $27,036 with those options. More details latter. For now pics of the last one and the new one along with her first mod:
The Old One:
The New One:
The old one getting ready for her first mod:
The New Ones first mod:
[2013-01-27]
Snapped a quick pick after Ashtanga this AM:
I also placed my first parts order today from FT86-SpeedFactory:
- Goodridge Stainless Brake Lines
- 1/L Motul RBF600
- EBC Yellowstuff Front and Rear Pads
- Whiteline Camber Bolt Kit Front
- Whiteline Rear Camber Kit
I want to start with getting the alignment done with some decent street tire settings (probably around -1.8 f -1.6 r minimal toe) and get some track day capable pads and fluid in the clamp department.
I'm debating on the first round of power mods... I 100% plan to go Twin Screw in the near future and given that the innovate stg1 kit includes cable, and tune (no mention of the license) at 3,500 and the tuner kit (without cable, or tune) is only 200 less.... It seems silly to go out and spend 825 now if it will only save me 200 latter... then again I guess I could re sell the cable...
Also, I don't really want to buy parts that won't work with the twin screw... most aftermarket intakes will not... the exception being the perrin CAI.
I'm probably going to either do an FA20club stg1 or Perrin CAI, Perrin Tube, and a front pipe, or i may just buy an Injen intake (about the same gains as a tune but it may not minimize the dip as much as a tune) and sell it once i go twin.
Thought I would try to recount my auto history in order:
- 82 Supra
- 86 RX-7 SE (did the full GXL brake and LSD swap)
- 88 RX-7 Turbo II
- 85 RX-7 street ported 4 port 13B
- 1990 Bell Turbo Miata
- 1998 Ford Contour SE (daily driver, but still swapped every SVT contour part)
- 2003 1st Allocation Evo VIII (340 awhp on uncorrect dynodynamics)
- 2008 Evo X (360 awhp on uncorrected dynodynamics)
- 1995 E36 M3 (track day car)
- 2006 X3 (daily driver while i had the M3)
- 2010 Ralliart Sportback (evo X turbo, MR SST software)
- 2013 Asphalt FRS
I still need to install the PLX gauges and my laser jammer that I pulled out of the sportback.
[2013-01-30]
Installed one of the Saikou Michi DC3 catch cans i pulled of the Ralliart a few minutes ago:
Also, got some of my goodies from Ft-86 Speed Factory today:
Heading down to GranTurismo East first thing in the AM to get a good alignment on it. Still waiting on the EBC pads and another bottle of RBF600. SHould have the brakes done late this weekend or early next week.
[2013-01-31]
Got the first alignment done today.. We ended up not using the WhiteLine rear correction kit.. we just didn't need it at stock ride height. Based on the stock rubbers edge wear from the little bit of driving I have done... It's not going to need a ton of camber to get the tires working well. We ended up around -1.5 front and -1 rear with about .04 inches total toe in front and .07 rear. Pre alignment camber was 0 up front. That little bit of negative camber really seemed to wake up the front grip level
[2013-02-03]
Well, I was going to hit the dragon today but.... i got a ticket earlier this week while on my way down for the alignment. It was a speed trap to say the least in an area that used to be 45mph and is now 35mph... Lazer of course so I made it a point to install my Lazer Interceptor today.. this thing has saved from SO MANY tickets on my last 3 cars it has paid for itself over and over...
I'm not thrilled with the head placement but it is the closest I could get them to the head lights (most common target when shooting lazer) without cutting into the bumper cover. As it stands I only cut the grill insert which is easily replaced. I may consider moving the heads to the fog light area if I have any issues with the current placement. I'll get a better pic tommorow.
[2013-02-04]
Well,
I finally got all the parts i needed to do the initial brake upgrade (ebc yellow pads, motul RBF 600, goodridge stainless lines) today. Unfortunately I did not check the pad fitment before I swapped the lines.. turns out EBC miss labeled a set of rear pads... not sure what the pads in the box are for, but they are sure not for the rear of an FR-S / BRZ lol:
FT86 Speed Factory is taking care of me though and getting it sorted out. I'm very happy with these guys go far.. they take the time to respond to my endless PM's and have been providing great customer service so far!
I signed up for a KOSS Drift Event at Atlanta Motor Speedway on March 16th.. My buddies down at GTE promised to get me some good right seat coaching for the event... I don't plan on turning this into a drift car., I'm just really craving some advanced car control instruction and practice with the FR-s. I need to check the schedule and get signed up for the next trackday at AMP.
[2013-02-05]
$30 Hallogen Projector Upgrade
So, the FR-S uses H11 hallogen bulbs in the low beam projectors. H11's have a standard output of about 1300 lumens at 55w.. H9 bulbs have an average output of 2100 lumens at 65w. The H9 bulbs need very minor modifications to be plug and play.. you need to trim one of the three lugs just a bit as shown here:
You will also need to trim down one of the tabs in the connector.. I'll grab a pic tommorow.. had one but delted it by mistake. The stock H11 bulbs are osram's so they may be a higher output than standard H11's... Here is a cell phone pic of H9 (driver side) vs H11 (passenger side):
Not as big of a difference as i was hopeing for, but it will tide me over until i do the bi zenon retrofit.
[2013-02-11]
BRZedit Finally!!
So, Epifan finally released BRZEdit personal edition last monday... I have been busy testing and tuning since then. I've already learned a good bit about tuning this platform, as others have said just adjusting fuel and timing is not going to gain you much... I think the key to minimizing the torque dop and getting good gains is going to be in manipulating the DI and PFI systems to get a better ratio during the dip and manipulating the injection timing events a bit. Of Course VVT will also need to be adjusted. I have a couple hours of dyno time booked for thursday so hopefully i will have some good results to share thursday afternoon
[2013-02-14]
First Tune with BRZedit
Well, I got to try out several things.. some worked some did not. In the end i was pressed for time and had to go back to stock cam timing from 6800 and up as the direction i thought it would want to go did not pan out. Torque dip is noticeably improved with peak gains of about 10ft-lb in the latter half of the dip and 5ft-lb everywhere else up to just past 7,000. I did not get to try out the all the cam timing variation i wanted. Next time I will prepare my maps ahead of time. Over all it feels noticeably stronger but im unhappy that i didn't work out the cam timing up top before i had to go.
Red is stock map with IAM set to 1.0 (full timing advance) at 550*ambient temp on 93 octane, this is as strong as the stock map will every be. Blue is the tune i left on with about 65* ambient temp
[2013-06-08] E85 Tune
Had a couple hours to hop on the dyno today and do my E85 tune. Gained 12ftlb and 15whp over my best 93 tune with the same mods. FA20 CAI, Nameless catted front/over pipe, Nameless 3" Axle Back. I'll be posting a BRZedit how to tonight