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Originally Posted by Gixxersixxerman
I thought about that, and there really isn't anything to be done unless I install them in front of the plates, but as these are bi-xenon a actuator is there for the flap.. And I couldn't get a even light displacement in front.. I'll do this untill they go out then replace with a different color or epoxy the hole up and try somewhere else
Just to clear things up, heat is a LEDs enemy, I have pretty standard bulbs, when these fail, I'll most likely get a pair of HPLEDs.. The high powered led "chips" can sustain up to 120*c or about 248*f those would be more suited for this, I can find them on eBay and I'm sure through lumileds or osram. Typically a hid bulb runs in the high 180-190 range, but have seen people report up to 300*.. Either way, HPLEDS are the way to go
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Even high powered LEDs are compromised by the heat a filament or HID will put out when in that close of proximity. I have used Luxeon 1W, 3W, 5W, K2, Rebels, etc, in multiple different projects. If you pour through the datasheets, they all recommend never exceeding 100* C to maintain the full life span. This becomes a major issue when dealing with high density applications or high ambient temperatures, usually requiring the use of heat sinks.
I'm currently working on a dual mode dome light replacement for this car that will have a pleasant accent light in a select-able color, and then a main flood light using Luxeon Rebel Whites. Due to the packaging and power draw (20W), thermal considerations were the number one priority during board design and packaging.
The only way to avoid killing your LEDs in this application is to use a high-temperature "light tunnel" if you will. It would need to be some sort of clear plastic/acrylic that would allow you to remotely mount the LED and then run the light to the position in the projector you really wanted.
-Acree