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Old 01-15-2013, 08:42 AM   #15
FRSFirestorm
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Drives: 13 FRS 6MT Firestorm
Location: Central Kentucky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmookher View Post
indeed, this can be a job that requires some skill level, i'd say you had your turn. seek help before you go a cuttin, please.

1-do not use impact on these in or out.

2-go thru the forum and find a wrecked frs or brz and obtain a set of the bolts you need first
.
seriously.

3-BEFORE you go cutting into the car, try taking the old bolt out, get some PB blaster to make removal with breaker bar easier. get in there and look at the threads inside nut, they may not be as bad as you think, may be recoverable with a tap, be gentle, really gentle

4-if youre confident in your skills go to a shop that is capable - most any subie or import shop should be able to do this if the threads are good, otherwise I suggest a good frame and body shop for doing that sort of thread assessment tapping or welding correctly

5-try and see if you can get a fresh bolt to thread into the hole if inserted at right angle, or resort to tap, remove subframe if needed

I see no need to cut out that bolt. yet.
Thanks for the advice. I have the skills to do this, my constraints are time and location. Unfortunately the car is my only means of transportation and I have a 1.5 hr daily commute to work and back. I do have a motorcycle but I'm not riding it back and forth in the dead of winter. I'm also living in an apartment with a garage but its very small and filled with my tools and bike. I do have a couple buddies with garages and will probably look at doing it there.

I've also considered, as you mention, taking it to a shop but I live in small town KY and reputable shops are hard to come by. As you also mentioned I to believe a body shop would probably be the best choice for this. Something I'm sure they've see before.

Anyway here is my plan.

I have 2 new bolts on the way. Ordered from Toyota dealer. $7.56 ea.

Once I have the bolts, determine the size and thread pitch to get a tap. I'm not pulling one out to find out now.

Once I have these I am going to attempt to get the bolt out. As I've mentioned it is seized. I can turn it in and out about 4 turns before it locks. I didn't put more muscle to it as I didn't want to break it. I've already applied PB blaster. This was Sunday evening and I had to work next day and I didn't have a large enough tap to try that if I got the bolt out.

If I get the bolt out without breaking it I will then attempt to tap the threads in the hidden nut. If it breaks I have no choice but to then cut access, through the trunk I think, to get to the nut and cut it loose.

If the tap doesn't work I again have no reasonible choice but to cut access and replace the nut. Cutting access or the bolt will be my last resort.
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