thanks to @
lazyluka for sending logs.
I dont think the logs are long enough. From what I have read the full scan can take over 3 hours. The only issue is mine ls disconnecting the bluetooth and his is shutting off the ecu. I am debating if I should post something on the torque forum to see if someone wants to help. Hell I would be willing to donate money to the cause if need be.
Its intersting that the common oil temp calculation is a-40 and that ecutek was reporting -40 the second i unplugged the cable.
Here is the thread
http://torque-bhp.com/forums/?wpforu...topic&t=1629.4
As someone who enjoys reverse engineering, and the work Ian has done with this application – I thought I’d add my 2 cents (or 7 for that matter – via the points below).
1) Get the TorqueScan plugin.
2) Run the TorqueScan application on your car – this may take 3+ hours depending on how many actual PID’s (think of them as memory addresses in a computer/PLC). If you are looking for a temp sensor – run this scan on a completely cold car to use the known temp sensors (coolant is pretty universal) to have as a baseline of what other temp modules would have. Learn how you would test/verify the data of the sensor you are looking for (IE: my next step is to find the KR PID – I’ll be tapping near my knock sensor watching 6 PIDs at a time to see if any respond – PIDs that measured Zero on scan).
3) Take the PID scan results and save them in notepad (forces you to email them to Ian I believe) and look at (traditionally mode 22 PIDs for GM’s – not sure for other brands protocols). and draw a line down in a column that provides the payload data from each return of the PID. IE: Command:222002 repsonse: 62 20 02 FF The 62 20 02 is the response of the PID address, the FF is the data.
4) The data is provided in Hex – convert to decimal to get a rough gauge of what it could mean. (temp sensors typically are A-40 – take that in mind).
5) Have a beer, relax, and look through all data values that seem they may be near/around a known data value. IE: My coolant temp sensor cold was data value ’43′hex = 67decimal. Then I take 67-40(per the formula) = 27. 27*C = 80.6*F. A bit of simple math here may help get a rough idea… you could confirm this with your dash display – if you have coolant temp/air temp.
6) With some of the PID’s that could work, test them out – make a few test PID configs, map them in the dashboard view and see how they respond. See if you can confirm this information via other means (thermometer/etc). This is how I found my IAT2.
7) Come back to the forum, share your results – pass a beer to a friend and enjoy the fruits of your labor (Diagnostic reverse engineering can be fun! share with a friend!)
Thanks,