Quote:
Originally Posted by flatline
The way you are talking about driving, I'm not sure how much more efficient your system is going to be?
I would say I rarely get my FR-S up above 5k rpm. I drive it 90% of the time like a normal car (since it *is* my daily driver). Screw all this "because racecar" stuff. My car will almost certainly never see the track and it will never lay down a 1/4.
Personally, I'm fine sacrificing power up top for low-end oomph since I never drive at the redline. I'm not interested in launch control or any of that malarkey. I just want the car to feel a little more responsive on the throttle from 1.5-3.5k rpm. Depending on how much of a hit the fuel efficiency takes, I might be OK with it.
That said, I've had my eye on about half a dozen different FI solutions, but I'm withholding judgement and selection until they are more thoroughly implemented, tested, and flogged.
|
Well flatline, I will leak this much...
Our current version, compared to a certain kit's posted graph, at an equivalent peak boost pressure, we are making in the neighborhood of
20lb/ft of torque more between
3000 RPM and
4500 RPM. Between
4500 RPM and
5700 RPM the spread grows to
38lb/ft. Peak torque starts to taper just after
5700 RPM in a linear and smooth fashion, the spread drops to
25lb/ft until about
6500 RPM then smoothly down to
14lb/ft to red line. Below 3000 RPM it only torque delivery only gets worse for the other system, as it builds boost with the slope of RPM. Basically, this translates to between
180lb/ft and 200lb/ft of torque between 3000 RPM and 7200 RPM at a similar boost level, to the wheels. Peak torque on the twin screw occurs at 5000 RPM vs 6500 RPM on the other kit. The twin screw also matches the peak torque value of the other kit 3500 RPM sooner...
I am rounding the numbers down as we use a different dyno with a higher parasitic loss, potentially different weather conditions, altitude, etc. But the trend would be the same, so the spread would likely be larger on the same day, same dyno.
Keep in mind, neither of these kits are 100% polished and ready, components, calibration, etc. can change before final release. As mentioned previously, they have not being tested identically. I do not think the other kit is inferior, it is just different and designed for a different type of customer. Simply weigh the cost and attributes of all the offerings and decide what is right for you. There really is no kit that will be all things to all people, just what you feel will work best for you.
:happy0180: