Quote:
Originally Posted by Draco-REX
Still no popping from my car so far.
I was just thinking about this. Of the two other cars in this thread, one at -0.8 camber and the other at -1.5, mine has the most neg camber at -2.0. If the tolerances are as tight as Myles thinks they are, maybe the more upright angle of my struts due to the max camber setting is providing enough clearance.
I know when un-installed there are no clearance issues. The tophats had no resistance to spinning freely. But when mounted to the car perhaps the strut is angled just enough for the upper perch to touch. I don't know, I didn't look too closely at the clearances after determining that the tophats spun freely.
|
Again to my suspicions... but I need to troubleshoot more!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Draco-REX
While someone turns the wheel, check to make sure the nuts in the tophats are turning. Also, again while someone is turning the wheel, look at the upper spring perches and see if they are turning also.
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Draco-REX
I have top mounts and springs, no noise. A popping noise when turning the wheel usually means the upper spring perch is not moving with the wheels.
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Draco-REX
The top nut should rotate the same rate as your wheels. There should be no resistance at all. If it isn't rotating or not rotating with your wheels, then the tophat is binding up and your upper spring perch is not rotating the same amount as your spring. That would cause the spring to pop.
Also, make sure there is rubber between the spring and the upper perch.
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering
The issue I remember with assembly of the front struts is that unless you pay super close attention to the assembly of the noise isolator as you release the tension of the spring in the compressor its SUPER easy for the TOP rubber noise isolator to get deformed and this allows METAL ON METAL contact of the spring and the upper perch.......on PART of the front contact area. SO in other words part of the spring is resting on the rubber isolator and part is on the perch.
|
Quoting all this so I remember later this evening. I will be checking for proper movement/clearance of everything in the front strut assembly with the wheels off the car and see if I can isolate the noise. I will be driving home with the stock top mounts if I can't get everything including the Com-C's to stay quiet in one attempt reassembling everything and triple checking clearances.
It's also worth mentioning again that mine didn't pop or make any noises while turning when I had the camber bolts in. I swapped them for OEM bolts when I heard the rattling over bumps thinking wrongly that the camber bolts were loose and they were letting the assembly move around. THEN when running OEM bolts the popping while turning started. I think, as previously mentioned, that the amount (lack in my case) of negative camber has something to do with the popping from the Com-C bearings (PRESUMABLY, could be another part of the strut assy) while turning. The bearings still may be bad to begin with if they can't handle small deviations in camber. I think the rattling over bumps is bad clearances between the top mounts and the upper spring perch and rubber isolator, due to camber.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering
Thats interesting as I ran this set up for a while with as much as -2.3 front and as little as -1.0.
|
Ok so this shifts the logic a bit over to clearance issues and improper movement of the upper spring perch/noise isolator/springs causing both the popping while turning AND the rattling over bumps, which MAY be improved or worsened by different camber specs, BUT may not ever be fixed with out a proper reassembly ensuring proper clearances and movement!!