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KRAZYK · 09-17-2012, 10:14 AM

I've been planning out this build for a while now.. before I even got the car I think. Tackled it this weekend, have not had a chance to tune it yet but the hard part is done. ~16 hours straight with a 3 hour nap at about 6am lol.. hands are sore and a little cut up but that's the name of the game.

Kenwood DNX7140 Nav head unit
Kicker ZX700.5 amp.. actual output is stable at ~980 watts. Bridged the 4 channels down to 2. Built in sub channel.
Image Dynamics CTX-6.5cs components
Monster 12/14 gauge audio wire
FatMat and RAAM audio closed cell foam(CCF)
Metra 70-1761 wiring harness
Metra 95-8202 dash kit
Scosche LSAAB 02+ dual antenna harness
Speaker baffles by phenryiv1
I am building a box for the JL 12 W3 today.. ill post pics of that in a couple days.

Started off by striping out the interior.. thought about taking the seats out but left them in and just pulled the carpet back when needed (to run wires or FatMat).

Pulled out all 8 stock speakers and secured the stock wiring so it doesn't rattle later on.

Pulled the head unit (non BeSpoke).

~40 sqft of FatMat.. Doors, trunk, floor. Little bit of CCF behind the door speakers.

Ran the power wire for the amp. I am proud of this one.. the power wire I use is BIG.. 0/1 gauge I think. I was looking at the firewall thinking about how tight it is going to be to fit it through the stock firewall wire location (behind the battery). So just for kicks I followed the "noise generator" tube to the firewall to see where it came out, and see how big it was. Turns out it was the PERFECT size for my power wire.. so I pulled the noise tube (which I had planned on doing anyway), and ran the power wire.. saved myself a BIG hassle of trying to run that wire though the stock firewall location.

I cut some plastic with my dremel to make mounts for my tweeters.. turned out nicely. Any bigger and the tweets would have had some spacing issues with the stock covers going back on the dash.

Ran the speaker wire for the doors.. I cut a corner with this one. Instead of running the wire through the door boot I punched a hole on each side of the boot and ran the wire that way. The boot was just too tight to run the wire through and that door gap is so tight.. I would have had to take the door off to actually get my hand in there to guide it through.

Installed the door speakers with door spacers from phenryiv1 .. Fit very nicely and had no problems other than I had to do a little digging for some longer bolts that would fit the spacers and door.

Ran the power wire, RCAs, speaker wire, amp remote wire, bass remote wire, and E-brake wire all through the center console. Tons of room in there, and leads right into the back seat so it was easy to hide the wires all the way to the trunk.

Tucked the Image Dynamics crossovers: one in the glove box, and the other in the dash behind the head unit. I could have probably installed both behind the dash now that I think about it.. but I'm happy with how it is for now.

Mounted the amp on the back seat. The amp is a pretty big 5 channel so I think I got lucky in the sense that the mounting holes just happened to line up pretty well with some solid portions of the back seat to drill into.

Installing the head unit was easy.. I came prepared though, I already had the wiring harness soldered and heat shrink-ed, had the adapter for the antenna, had to trim the dash kit side "filler" panels a little to fit the stock HU brackets, had all of the parts needed to mod the stock USB/aux port. I used this guide for the USB/aux mod: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/aud...head-unit.html

Once I had the HU in I reconnected the battery and gave everything a quick test.. HU, Amp, speakers all worked so I turned it off and put everything back together. No nuts or bolts left over at the end so I think I did ok.

This is the first time ever working with FatMat or any sort of sound mat.. all of my other audio installs have been pretty low key compared to this one. Car is solid now - doors and trunk close with a solid THUNK.

Gotta thank the ft86club community for various information.. I like to come into these builds with some know-how before I start pulling things apart. Adapter part numbers and product reviews from other members all go into my desicions for my build.

Ill post more pics when I get a chance.

http://s188.photobucket.com/albums/z...ndamonkey/FRS/

09-17-2012, 10:14 AM	#1
KRAZYK Self Entitled Join Date: Jul 2012 Drives: 13' Red FR-S, 12' Toyota Tundra Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 122 Thanks: 17 Thanked 13 Times in 13 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	KRAZYK's audio build log I've been planning out this build for a while now.. before I even got the car I think. Tackled it this weekend, have not had a chance to tune it yet but the hard part is done. ~16 hours straight with a 3 hour nap at about 6am lol.. hands are sore and a little cut up but that's the name of the game. Kenwood DNX7140 Nav head unit Kicker ZX700.5 amp.. actual output is stable at ~980 watts. Bridged the 4 channels down to 2. Built in sub channel. Image Dynamics CTX-6.5cs components Monster 12/14 gauge audio wire FatMat and RAAM audio closed cell foam(CCF) Metra 70-1761 wiring harness Metra 95-8202 dash kit Scosche LSAAB 02+ dual antenna harness Speaker baffles by phenryiv1 I am building a box for the JL 12 W3 today.. ill post pics of that in a couple days. Started off by striping out the interior.. thought about taking the seats out but left them in and just pulled the carpet back when needed (to run wires or FatMat). Pulled out all 8 stock speakers and secured the stock wiring so it doesn't rattle later on. Pulled the head unit (non BeSpoke). ~40 sqft of FatMat.. Doors, trunk, floor. Little bit of CCF behind the door speakers. Ran the power wire for the amp. I am proud of this one.. the power wire I use is BIG.. 0/1 gauge I think. I was looking at the firewall thinking about how tight it is going to be to fit it through the stock firewall wire location (behind the battery). So just for kicks I followed the "noise generator" tube to the firewall to see where it came out, and see how big it was. Turns out it was the PERFECT size for my power wire.. so I pulled the noise tube (which I had planned on doing anyway), and ran the power wire.. saved myself a BIG hassle of trying to run that wire though the stock firewall location. I cut some plastic with my dremel to make mounts for my tweeters.. turned out nicely. Any bigger and the tweets would have had some spacing issues with the stock covers going back on the dash. Ran the speaker wire for the doors.. I cut a corner with this one. Instead of running the wire through the door boot I punched a hole on each side of the boot and ran the wire that way. The boot was just too tight to run the wire through and that door gap is so tight.. I would have had to take the door off to actually get my hand in there to guide it through. Installed the door speakers with door spacers from phenryiv1 .. Fit very nicely and had no problems other than I had to do a little digging for some longer bolts that would fit the spacers and door. Ran the power wire, RCAs, speaker wire, amp remote wire, bass remote wire, and E-brake wire all through the center console. Tons of room in there, and leads right into the back seat so it was easy to hide the wires all the way to the trunk. Tucked the Image Dynamics crossovers: one in the glove box, and the other in the dash behind the head unit. I could have probably installed both behind the dash now that I think about it.. but I'm happy with how it is for now. Mounted the amp on the back seat. The amp is a pretty big 5 channel so I think I got lucky in the sense that the mounting holes just happened to line up pretty well with some solid portions of the back seat to drill into. Installing the head unit was easy.. I came prepared though, I already had the wiring harness soldered and heat shrink-ed, had the adapter for the antenna, had to trim the dash kit side "filler" panels a little to fit the stock HU brackets, had all of the parts needed to mod the stock USB/aux port. I used this guide for the USB/aux mod: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/aud...head-unit.html Once I had the HU in I reconnected the battery and gave everything a quick test.. HU, Amp, speakers all worked so I turned it off and put everything back together. No nuts or bolts left over at the end so I think I did ok. This is the first time ever working with FatMat or any sort of sound mat.. all of my other audio installs have been pretty low key compared to this one. Car is solid now - doors and trunk close with a solid THUNK. Gotta thank the ft86club community for various information.. I like to come into these builds with some know-how before I start pulling things apart. Adapter part numbers and product reviews from other members all go into my desicions for my build. Ill post more pics when I get a chance. http://s188.photobucket.com/albums/z...ndamonkey/FRS/ Last edited by KRAZYK; 09-19-2012 at 10:37 AM.