Quote:
Originally Posted by DSPographer
I would like a group buy for the harness. I think we can choose the camera we want without a group buy. I doubt that there is much difference between a $200 camera and a metal case one with IP67 weatherproofing like a Pyle that is $35 from Amazon.
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Not sure if SVXdc does group buys but the basic composite video to two wires w/ necessary pin receptacles will run you $14 plus shipping.
That's not a bad deal, honestly. You could certainly save a few bucks by doing it yourself if you have the necessary parts / tools lying around. If not, it'll cost you only a bit cheaper if you order the parts yourself, then you have to get a TE hand tool to properly crimp the receptacles.
As far as ease of installation - you basically take the two ends and plug them into your existing 16-pin harness at pins 1 and 16. Done.
If you want to do the whole video in motion bypass jobbie, then you have to cut and ground the existing gray wire, or if you prefer to keep your stock wiring virgin, remove it from the harness and attach your own ground wire. Then add a remote toggle switch on the 28-pin connector's VSS wire (pin 17 I believe). Now you don't need your ebrake on and can be in motion while having full access to video, phone, navigation input, etc. Don't wrap yourself around a tree.
By the way, I didn't find it necessary to ground pin 15 of the 16-pin harness. Not sure what that's for, but the rearview camera works fine without that connected.
As for my camera itself, as mentioned earlier, I routed the wiring up the license plate light opening, through a grommet that I replaced one of the bolts with (that rear fascia thing had 5 bolts and a snap-on holding it down, it won't miss one of them). I then followed the existing wiring through the sleeve that brings the trunk lid into into the trunk body, then on to the driver side panel, through the door sill, and to the fusebox and headunit. The camera was given its own fuse which is on with ACC.
Only other thing I had to do was readjust the headunit's guidelines over to the left and down a bit. The stock camera location is on the left side underneath that trunk lid fascia, so the camera guidelines were pushed off to the right to compensate for center. Since my license plate camera is dead center, I had to bring the lines back to the left. Based on how I have my camera's angle set (bumper is just barely visible on the bottom of the screen), I had to bring the grid lines down a bit as well. I guess the stock camera shows more of the bumper, but that's not that useful in my opinion - I'd rather see more of the area behind the car, than more of the car itself.