Quote:
Originally Posted by FRSpdDmn
Dave, do you have a report back on the performance?
To everyone else: Use a pad that is designed for the heat range you will be operating in. I hear all this "HPS sucks". Well, they're street pads. Of course they suck. This is not rocket science, but selecting the right pad for your application is crucial. It could take some trial and error. Maybe even some data (temp paint, IR gun, driver feedback, etc). Also, you are not going to need full bore race pads if you're running on stock tires. Even upgraded street tires. Yes, upgrade the pads. But select the right heat range.
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The XP pads worked well. Stock fluid and pads started to fade after 3 laps at Mid Ohio (I was too lazy to deal with it in the morning). Once I switched I ran the rest of my sessions without any issues and ended up with nice smoking front brakes after every session.
I will try XP10s all around next time, but I'm afraid that the rear brakes didn't get up to any reasonable temp anyways and am of the opinion that the brake bias/EBD stuff is more to blame than anything else and I'm not convinced a higher temp material in the rear will help much at all, but what they hell, I'll give it a shot.
I'd love to get some rotor temp paint and caliper temp stickers but they are fairly pricey
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-Dave
Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback
DD: 2005 Acura TSX
Tow: 2022 F-450
Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4
Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX
Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build
FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles