Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelhaus
The doors are the most important because they directly share the air space of the speakers. If you only plan to do a little bit, definitely focus here because this is the most sensetive area.
Other areas to look for would be any body panel that seems to rattle or resonate when you tap on it. Most of the interior panels will be relatively easy to pop loose to access the skin. The roof skin is a tricky one; it's exposed to the sun and the deadener can droop and sag from the heat, maybe leave it alone... For most of these noisy panels you only need to use a patch of deadener big enough to kill the resonation. You want a sort of dead thud when you tap it. For the doors, feel free to do as much as you like, you can even use some metal sheeting (like a punched mesh or something lightweight) to cover the openings in the inside door structure, and layer deadener over top of it. The more you add here the more acoustically solid the door will be. I've heard door speakers that have a REALLY impressive thump and midrange clarity that didn't exist before adding deadening. Check out a mobile audio site such as www.DIYmobileaudio.com for more ideas. Some of those guys are obsessive!
For installation, clean the surfaces well (finish with isopropyl alcohol) and use a roller or something to finish the application. Try to avoid air bubbles, its not critical but helps it last longer since the air will try to expand/contract from temp changes. Several small pieces are just as effective as one large piece. Overlapping and layering helps as well, and will improve the deadener effect. Aluminum tape is best for a long lasting finish over edges and other bits that need to be taped down. Overall it's not hard, just takes time. |
Cool man! Thanks for the info. It really helped. I'll talk to my sound guy too about how much deadening I need (and where it should go). He'll be installing it too. He's done most of my sound stuff already (in previous cars) and I trust he'll do it properly.