[Scargod]

My second ZD8 BRZ has fully adjustable suspension components on TSS Fab subframes. I'm the Guinea Pig for his new subframes. In the fall I was running the front subframe with no issues. Car handled fine. While the rear was being finished I ran the stock subframe with GKTech solid subframe and diff bushings.
I typically run at 4-1/2" inches front and 5" rear (at the pinch welds).
Part of 2025 I ran Ohlins Road & Track SUS MP21S2. Front Stroke: 120 mm/4.72” / Rear Stroke looks to be about 75mm or 3".
My JRZ RS Pro3 Motorsport shocks date back to 2017-2018 and came from CSG! I'm their second owner. The JRZ's are around 5-1/2 to 6" stroke in the front, depending on the bump-stops. Rear stroke is 4"+.
I've been setting the car up so that I have a 60/40 shock travel in the front. This required me having to turn special spacers on my lathe and move my caster/camber plates to the top of the shock towers, where alone I recouped about an inch of compression travel. I gained another 3/8" by using all of the threaded portion of the shaft that I could. I made special nuts for this so that threads extended down into the spherical bearing. I'm very happy with the front geometry and its very nearly a 60/40 stroke though not a 75/25 I've read about. BTW I have full aero.
It's the rear of the car that's killing me and what I don't understand.
The new subframe is supposed to yield a 5/8" drop. When I try to go to full compression (with the springs and bump-stop removed) I can only get to 1-1/2" of travel before the upper control arm hits the monocoque metal frame. I tried a Cusco UCA and it was negligibly better. Best looking of all (for the most travel) was the stock arm... I did not bother fitting it on the subframe.
I can't get full travel from the JRZ's. Droop yields no positive camber. At the interference point I'm at -3° which is okay. At issue is that I'm an inch or so away from contacting the bump-stop. I'm hitting the body frame before I've used half of my shock's travel.
I don't know what to do but to move the structural sheet metal in at the interference point or grind on the side of the arm. Before I do that I thought I'd check my sanity and see if anyone else has had a similar experience and/or what a different solution would be. The last thing I want to do is move the subframe down to gain UCA clearance. I like where the diff sits and all the rest of the geometry, as is.
BTW, I really like the toe links and the long trailing arms that came with the TSS Fab subframe. Great welding and construction. William has been great to work with.